Motorcycle Alabama

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After months of planning, prepping the bike, pre-trip shakedown ride and restructuring my entire plan, July 9, 2016 arrived. I was/am in the middle of a home remodel and most of my attention had been focused on that. There were many moments when I doubted the prudence of taking a 4 week trip to Alaska. But I loaded the bike and took off to meet the crew in Cullman. What follows is a general report of the adventure but mostly what I learned along the way about myself and this world we live in.

Several folks contacted me before the trip to see if I was ready. They very graciously expressed concern about me taking this trip, trying, I felt, not to say, "Are you crazy?"   But did you ever set out to do something not really knowing how insanely ridiculous it was? Funny how I see that now, and yet I did it. And I'm glad I didn't know how impossible it seemed. A 650single cylinder street bike making a 10,000 mile trip with three large displacement, adventure bikes with the right equipment and tires, piloted by 3 experienced riders. Since the inception of the trip, I considered myself the weak link in the chain and tried to prepare myself and my bike to perform at maximum. I knew my weaknesses and did not want to be the reason anyone had to babysit me or my bike and delay the trip. I knew the Top of the World Hwy was primarily dirt and gravel, so I spent some time(limited though it was) trying to improve my comfort level. To little avail. I was still timid. Allen mentioned he was concerned about my tire choice for the trip. Avon Storms. 100% street tire. But after weeks of research, there were no off road capable tires that would fit my bike. I essentially had NO choice. I went with tread longevity. And my bike? Well, there was no choice. I rode what I had. Disadvantages and all. A 14 year old, uncommon single cylinder, belt driven, BMW f650cs. Parts are scarce and ease of maintenance and service was going to be a problem. Even if I found a BMW shop, finding a tech who was familiar with my bike was not likely. Space for gear and tools was at a premium. (Shhh. The group thinks I brought an extra belt as back up. I didn't. But I did have an extra clutch lever which proved to be a good idea on the last 4 miles of the first day).

From what I saw your choices were just fine.  My 2005 BMW 650 has about the same engine and it is solid as a rock.  The roads I saw you ride looked like hard pack gravel for the most part.  We delude ourselves whe we think we need a dirt bike for such. There are plenty of examples out there of folks riding Sporters or sport bike to Alaska and back.

Yes Yes. Please continue....... :o

 Moore please  ;)

Prepping the bike and gear:
As I mentioned, my bike is a 650 belt driven, single cylinder Rotax engine. Yes, a bullet proof motor with easily accessible parts. But the rest of the bike presents challenges. It's nickname is the Scarver, short for "street carver". The original inception was for it to be a worthy commuter. And it does that task very well with an average of 62mpg and a 4.1 gallon tank. It is not necessarily set up for adventure luggage. With my budget limited, purchasing luggage, specifically side cases, was not an option. I found a set of OEM bags on the f650 site. Reportedly waterproof and approximately 50liters of storage capacity between the rear seat, tail bag and tank bag. It was gonna have to suffice. Glenn, (NiceGoat), had warned me about overpacking and to be sure I put aside money to ship unused gear home. I decided to start tossing before I left. Last minute, I tossed my heated vest. It certainly would have extended my riding time, but I had not had the chance to test it on my bike for compatibility with my charging system. An electrical meltdown 4500 miles from home was not how I wanted to spend my time, so out it went.
I added a fender extender to help keep rocks and muck off the belt.
I had a touring windscreen that was cracked through the mounting point when I dropped the bike last summer.  AAA Plastics did a $20 repair on it and I crossed my fingers that it would hold at highway speeds, high winds and through the rough roads ahead.
New ADV Mesh Monster headlights and I nixed the idea of added riding lights and engine guards. Land of the midnight sun. Right?
Oil change and a new set of Avon Storms. I had 8,000 miles on the last set and had about 2000 or so miles of tread remaining. Fingers crossed again.
I had new fork seals added in February. New brake line needed after adding Rox Risers and a new clutch cable and lever. May as well throw the old one in my pack.
Riding gear: My Tourmaster jacket had proven itself to be cool enough without the liner and with vents open and was reportedly waterproof. I didn't get a chance to test that claim before the ride and there was little room for rain or mesh gear. I added a pair of snow mobile pants to a compression bag with my liners, hoping they would provide cold and wet weather protection. They fit nicely over my Fieldsheer mesh pants, even with the liner in and leggings or jeans underneath. They also have a bib for added cold weather protection up top. Four pairs of gloves, one waterproof. For me, when the gloves get too bulky, I have difficulty reaching and squeezing the clutch and brake levers without taking my hand off the handlebar. Forget manipulating the blinker switch.

A bungee net held my small, soft side lunchbox/cooler on top of my bags with trail easy food and cooking essentials. You know, coffee and creamer :)

I added a hip pouch to keep all my necessities handy: drivers license, passport, money and music. The OEM tank bag is plenty roomy enough, but doesn't have compartments, so finding things quickly becomes an exercise in frustration.

Mounting the bike fully packed required me to stand on the pegs to throw my leg over, stand there and adjust my hip pouch and gear before I slid into my snug cockpit. Dismount required the same procedure in reverse.

You two are a tough combo (rider/bike) !

Day 1: 550 miles

My original plan was to leave a few days early and meet the group in North Dakota, hoping to avoid the 600 mile + days at the beginning. Things didn't work out that way. Remodeling delays and problems with my house/dog sitter situation didn't line up as I had hoped and I joined the group for our send off in Cullman at 9:00am on July 9th.
We headed north with a goal of making it to LeRoy, IL, Moraine View State Park.

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The group:

Lincoln Stewart - Triumph Tiger 800xc.
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Lincoln assumed the role of leader by default. He had the GPS with our route and as we would learn later, Allen's GPS would not show maps of Canada. Had we been in the Cayman Islands, we would have been golden...
I don't know how many of you are friends with Lincoln on Facebook, but he is serious about some left lane passing only. He practices what he preaches! And here is where he earned his "trip name"(just like hikers of the Appalachian trail, we earned trip names).  Digger. He simply did not quit. Onward. Same level of energy at the end of the day as he had at the beginning. I think I'm adding doughnuts and chocolate milk to my diet.

Tony Fancher - Suzuki VStrom 1000.
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Tony took the role of tail gunner and Babysitter. Rolling in to Moraine State Park about 11:00 that night, we made a wrong turn and had to turn around. I was exhausted and made "an error in judgment",(PC way of saying my gymkhana skills ain't worth shit). I dropped my bike and my left leg was caught under the bike. Tony had swung around before me and the group was already out of site. But Tony noticed my headlight wasn't moving and he came back. How he lifted that bike after a 500 mile ride is beyond me. But, bike up, assessment reveals broken clutch lever. Roll start in neutral and limped along in 1st and 2nd gear the final 2-3miles in to camp. (I'm holding off on revealing Tony's trip name. 8) ).

Allen Goodwin - riding two-up with his wife, Melony on their Yamaha Tenere.
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If you don't know Allen, fix that. Amazing rider and barrels of positive energy. He and Melony are an incredible force. On and off the bike. They have the ride and camp down to a science. Lil'Abner and Daisy. Melony was a delight and helped me keep the estrogen level up for this trip. I couldn't have made it without her.
And me - BMW f650cs
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I'm enjoying the report, and you were on the road with a great group of people.

Seated, Arms folded, waiting patiently for more words of the report..................

I'm with Chuck, I'm looking forward to your report.  I enjoyed the pics on FB but I'm really glad you are taking the time to do a real ride report.

I was very excited. Going to Alaska has been a dream of mine for as long as I can remember. Long before motorcycling became part of my life.  Being able to make this trip on my bike was just gravy.

Lessons from Day 1:

1. If you're going on an adventure with Digger, buy some stock in monkey butt powder. It will pay for your trip.
2. Last DG - I know the map doesn't mark it, but the last Dollar General as you ride north is somewhere in middle Illinois. Stock up on Vienna Sausages and Beenie Weenies before you move on.
3.  I don't eat much when I ride. But for some reason, riding through the heartland left me craving corn on the cob and edamame.
4. When the bike is down, Tony will come to the rescue. I'm convinced Malachi pushed me over 8)

What the group learned from me: always pack a spare.

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Allen and Lincoln were trying to figure out how to repair my clutch lever when I pulled out the spare. "Who packs a spare clutch lever??!!?, they said in amazement. "Karla does," says Tony as he begins to wonder if there is a Suzuki dealer in the area for him to pick up an extra. Then they pitched in  to teach me how to change it. Thanks guys!

Take aways:

We spent a lot of our time in Midwest America on the first day. Endless fields of corn and soybeans spotted with small farming towns and wind farms. What I noticed was how different the communities appeared. Norman Rockwell worthy. The towns were neat and clean. Even the houses that seemed to be lower than middle class were well kept. Every blade of grass manicured. Old cars were clean and polished. Homes were freshly painted. There was little to no roadside trash. Marquees posted information about little league games and community events. A true picture of Americana. I had to wonder why it seemed so different than the farms where I grew up in south Alabama.

Looking at the fields an obvious reason stood out to me. Corporate farming. I don't know for certain, but the farms had a very business like feel. Acres and acres of corn and soybeans, all with corporate signs dotting the line between them and the road. I guess the days of the small time farmer are over in the Midwest. It's Walmart farming now. But there seems to be a financial gain for the community. Hopefully, Health benefits and vacation days.


Note: I will add pictures when I get some from Melony. She was our photographer as the rest of us were kinda busy being pilots :)

 ;)

Anxiously awaiting more...........

Thanks for taking us along! You guys rock!

Lessons from Day 2: 620miles

1. Cerro Gordo - I know just enough Spanish to carry on a minimal conversation. And sometimes my memory ain't so good. We went through two towns named Cerro Gordo, one in Illinois, one in Iowa. My "memory", or lack of, was certain that "cerro" was Spanish for pig, therefore the towns were "Fat Pig." (In reality, cerro is Spanish for "hill", " cerdo" is pig). I'm sticking with pig.
2. Another popular farm in Illinois was the wind farm. At this point, there was a noticeable change in the climate as well. It was windy. I considered whether or not the position of the wind mills had been strategic(catching the best wind) or if they were producing the wind. But when the roadside puddles have white caps, you know why you're fighting your bike to stay in your lane. The road may have been straight, but we were all using our sidewalls. No worries about flat spots on those tires!
2. And the rain begins...hours of rain...time to find out if my waterproof gear works. Most of it didn't.

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The bags were constructed like a tent with seam seal tape that was old and cracked. Most of my clothes in the tail bag were wet. Camping gear in the rear seat bag was okay as it was packed in waterproof stuff sacks(thank you, YankeeDog). My waterproof gloves and snowmobile pants worked for awhile, but after hours of rain, they were approaching fail status. My jacket worked well with only a little seepage at the collar. Shoulda, woulda, coulda done a better job on rain prep. Time to rethink.
3. Suburbia, MN was nice. Thanks to GPS we got to see a few neighborhoods up close and personal. And I got
To practice my rusty turn arounds. With a heavy pack load. In the rain.

The group learned from me: the gypsy has a crystal ball

Take aways: At the end of the day, you have to know your limit. I was wet. My gear was wet. And at 11:30pm we still had 50miles to go to our planned camp site. We stopped for fuel and it was still raining. We were in Alexandria, MN. There were three hotels right next to the gas station. We were 600+miles on the day at that point. Being the smaller bike in the group, I was struggling to keep up. I could run the speed with them, but if anything got in my way, like merging traffic, I did not have the power to catch up. It was a physical and mental struggle. I had been hallucinating and knew the next day was gonna be another push. If I was going to push my limit again, I needed rest and time to re-evaluate my gear. The group declined joining me and went on their way to camp....in the rain at a place called Lightening Lake. It lived up to its name that night.
I had time to consider what the adventure was worth. Why was I on this trip? What were my goals and priorities for making this trip? I had ridden to my limit two days in a row and looking at the plan, I was going to be doing it again. And again. I had one more day to reconsider my ability to physically accomplish this ride...or turn around.

This is an amazing ride report!

Great story...depending on how you look at it.  I was following along via spot....and monitoring that giant, inland hurricane....and getting wind reports from NWS....and hoping it's not as bad as it looks...but thinking that must be a miserable few days of riding.  I started to screen-grab some of those radar images....that was one gigantic LPS.

Lessons from Day 3: 545 miles

1. Don't underestimate the power of a good nights rest - The next morning I was showered and refreshed. I had gone through my gear, dried my clothes and repacked everything in garbage bags, then placed them in my luggage. Walmart was across the street. I walked over (in the rain) and bought a hydration pack. Bottled water wasn't working for me. I wasn't drinking enough. I texted Tony who said they had a rough night with high winds and lightening all night. They were waiting out a nasty storm. Hold my position. I finally received word to meet them 50 miles up the interstate at the exit for the campground.
When I walked in, Lincoln and Tony were chatting with "the old men having coffee" group. One of the guys said I sure looked refreshed and much better than the two guys who had only had a couple hours sleep. I agreed and asked if he saw any guilt in my eyes :). Nope. Not even a smidgen. Allen and Melony were still sleeping and we waited for them to respond to the text on our location. They arrived and we set out on another long wet ride. I wondered what the talk had been while they set up camp and broke down their tents the next morning. Were they taking odds on whether I would show up?
2. Don't ride too close to the trucks - Farming in Minnesota was different than Illinois. Grain trucks were replaced with livestock transport. At which point, supported by the smell, I realized the brown slurry spraying on us from the road wasn't mud 8)
3. Geometry wizards were from Minnesota - the idea of points on a straight line was born here. And everyone knows the shortest distance between two points is...... A straight line. Without studying Minnesota history, I can only suppose  that there was also a religious faction who determined curves were of the devil and would not be allowed. The Minnesota DOT obviously obliged the fanaticism. 
4. There's gold in them thar hills -WTF is it? - As we moved closer to the Canadian border, the landscape changed. Rolling hills as far as you could see, covered in a crop I didn't recognize. Pure gold. Bright yellow blooms. As the sun began to sink, it glowed. We had a few discussions on what it might be. Obviously a cash crop as every available square inch space was planted. Even the medians on the highways. Alfalfa? Wheat? Barley? Not likely. It was canola.

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Photo credit: stolen 8)

And every town we passed along the way had grain elevators with railways and grain cars. This crop dominance continued well in to Canada as we approached the Canadian Rockies. 1500 miles. How is it humanly possible for the world to consume THAT MUCH canola?
5. Caution when meeting the big trucks - With grain farming comes a need for transport. Not only did we fight rain early in the day, but as we moved north, the winds became stronger. I just thought I was struggling the day before. Meeting the large grain trucks became a game to see how long I could hold my line. Did I pick the right one or was this gonna be the gust that grabbed my helmet and lifted me out of my tight fit cockpit? I noticed small birds scattering from the roadside when these trucks passed, some of them flying into the path of the truck. I thought, yes. A quick end to these straight roads and endless fields of yellow. I might have to consider that if we didn't stop soon for a rest break.
6. Crossing the border - We finally arrived. It was still very much daylight and the rain had stopped somewhere amid the canola fields. A long rest break. Looking at the map and GPS to find a campground and exchanging USD for Canadian currency. This was it. If I crossed that border I was going all the way.

What the group learned from me: NEVER bet against the gypsy

Take aways: we spent quite a bit of time at the convenient store just outside the border crossing. There was a young guy at the register. He gave me free coffee because "it's old and probably not very good anyway." He was right. As I left he wished me a good night. I looked outside and it was pure daylight. I looked at my clock and it said 8:30pm. His shift was almost over and he would go home and maybe sleep just like I do when it's dark outside. Or would he? To me, it was day. It was then I realized how the people and the crops are affected by the longs days of summer, and alternately the long nights in winter. Growing any crop is accelerated by the extended sunlight. The length of the season is actually the same. The same number of sunlit hours. Just in fewer days. And the same for the people who live there. They have to take advantage of the sun when they have it. Same number of hours we have. Just on different days. I would be up all night in summer, gettin' while the gettin' was good.... and so we rode.

Great story.   You spin a great yarn.  Pero yo pienso pig es puerco.

Which proves just how bad my Spanish is. Peurco is pig. Cerdo is pork  ::)

Quote from: Chitza on August 01, 2016, 06:18:21 PM
2. Don't ride too close to the trucks - Farming in Minnesota was different than Illinois. Grain trucks were replaced with livestock transport. At which point, supported by the smell, I realized the brown slurry spraying on us from the road wasn't mud 8)

I had to explain to coworkers what was so funny when I started laughing.  Each week I present at our Tuesday meetings and I end with a "Fact of the Week", well this will be on there today.  Thanks,

Day 4: 500 miles

We stayed at a municipal campground in Weyburn, Saskatchewan, Canada, the night before.

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Canada has a good parks system with many cities offering low cost camping. The provinces also provide parks with few amenities, but they do have a well outhouse and free firewood at a very low cost.

Lessons from Day 4:
1.  Put the smallest bike up front - I'm not sure if it was a conscious decision with discussion or by accident, but the line up changed. I pulled out just behind Lincoln and found out that I had a more relaxed ride. I had been using all my energy and my bike was at max just trying to keep the pace. Catching up from behind had been draining. In second place, I could keep up with the group and didn't get separated. When the larger bikes fell behind, they were able to power up and get back in line. We kept this line up for most of the remaining miles.
2. A little known Minnesota history fact - The mathematician who wrote the theory of points on a line had a spiritual awakening and wrote the theory of roundabouts. He was exiled from Minnesota and moved to Canada where he was accepted and his theory on small curves to improve a change in direction when two straight lines intersected was put in to action. 
3. Grain elevators always have the names of the towns painted on them. It is how the train engineer knows where he is stopping.

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4. Tony is a man magnet. As we passed through Wainwright, a couple guys in a cool old restored truck couldn't get enough of chatting him up at every traffic light stop.
5.  If you're going to eat at a nice place, take a shower and wear clothes under your Moto gear so you can take off your riding pants. I was mistaken for a man in the restaurant  bathroom by a little girl. I brushed my hair. It didn't help.
6. We camped in Holden, Alberta that night. Had our first fight with the mosquitos. Spray your tent and tent door as you set it up. 

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This picture was taken at 10:15pm at our campsite in Holden.

Take aways: when you push your limit repeatedly, it gives in and expands.  Up to this point I was still entertaining the thought of turning around. I was so tired that I could not lift my butt off the seat. I had been able to wiggle side to side and stand while riding but standing on the pegs to mount and dismount was taking a few attempts before success. And I wasn't the only one 8). Tony earned his trip name, Mr. Myagi, for his karate kick method of mounting his bike. At one point I caught my foot in my luggage strap and Lincoln had to rescue me. But every morning, with any amount of sleep, I was ready to go again. There's no way to know your limit if you don't push to it. Like a kid slapping his toe right up to that line you drew in the sand, my body kept saying, "Go ahead. I dare you."

Was able to find some pictures on my phone(only one stolen, I'll replace it with one of mine when I find my blasted card reader). Went back and posted a few.

So proud of you and the rest of the the group.  Can't believe that you all rode there and back again so quickly!  No surprise that you were exhausted!

I now realize that Karla was paying WAY more attention to the details than me. My attempt at a ride report would be like
"We rode about 10-12 hours today and stopped in Canada somewhere to camp" I don't have the wordsmithing skills she possesses.

Wow. Thanks, Tony. That means a lot. And I think your take on the trip is important. I saw you taking good notes ;)

Quote from: Yankee Dog on August 01, 2016, 08:37:56 PM
Great story.   You spin a great yarn.  Pero yo pienso pig es puerco.

Quote from: Chitza on August 01, 2016, 09:37:54 PM
Which proves just how bad my Spanish is. Peurco is pig. Cerdo is pork  ::)

Depending on the country, you are both correct.  In Mexico, "cerdo" usually means a man acting like a pig.

https://youtu.be/OlCKJM5OYWM

I love reading about this trip.   I an envious and at the same time proud to know people that did the trip.  About six weeks ago, I did my longest trip to date and it was 5200 miles in 15 days.  You guys easily doubled that!    It is on my bicket list but unless i hit the lottery or change jobs it cannot happen until I retire :(

Keep it coming Gypsey Lady!

Lessons from Day 5: 425miles

1. The route to Alaska from Alabama is a "geographical oddity." Or at least the one in Lincoln's GPS. Everywhere we wanted to go was just 50 or 200 miles away. We stopped asking.
2. Tag brackets can be fickle. Or some jealous someone had a voodoo doll 8)   Gorilla tape, zip ties and bungees will suffice for repair.

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3. Beer fixes everything. Well that and a clean hotel room with laundry service. Having a low miles day allowed us to have dinner and beer.
4. The smell of clean laundry can revive a weary traveler. (If you make this trip and find yourself in Dawson Creek, BC, I recommend the Traveler's Inn. Nice people. Good hosts).
5. When you have soft luggage, you will never be able to re-pack it the same way twice. Taking it off the bike is a necessity. But close your eyes so you don't see all the dust and muck that has accumulated under it.

What the group learned about me: I'm a cheap date. One beer and I was asleep before they could walk me across the street to the hotel. Also, they were gonna get half of whatever I ordered.

Take aways: I was so oblivious to the actual plan that when we arrived at Dawson Creek and the beginning of the Alaska Hwy, that I had no idea there was a sign and a big deal photo to be had. I was so excited I could hardly breath. I wanted to stand on my seat but I'm afraid of heights. Standing on my pegs made me look like a normal height person. This was it. My no turn around point. Mile 0.

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And the flow of the group was working. Pace. Distance. Rest stops. We were beginning to read each other's body language. We had a rhythm. And it was noticeable. We inadvertently picked up another rider.   Dr. Sam from Florida. He had just changed jobs and was on a two month vacation before he moved to Texas. Sam graduated from UAB and worked in Selma for awhile, so it was almost like he was a Bama Bum. We had stopped at the Travelers Inn because we saw his BMW there. Must be a decent place, right? He was mesmerized by Allen and wanted to know everything Allen had to say about the trip and our plans. I'm not sure any of us were anxious to have a tag along, but tag he did. He wanted desperately to fit in. I may have been too harsh with him, pulling him aside and making sure he understood group riding. He was on an R1150gs, (I think...I never looked very close at his bike), new to him after trading a Hyabusa on which he had only put 4000miles in a couple years. I explained staggered riding and the 3 second rule of distance behind the rider in front of him. We rode through the Canadian Rockies where we had our first real encounters with wildlife. Sam was like a child, giddy and stopping to take photos of a bear cub on the roadside and honking his horn to scatter the herd of mountain goats in the road. He was dubbed Dr. Dolittle but he was too young to know who that was. I pulled him aside again and asked him to keep group safety in mind and not to scatter the wildlife as that made them even more unpredictable. Sam didn't stay with us much longer after that. And I began to regret how harsh I had been with him. If I could do it again, I think that's one thing I would change.

Quote from: Chitza on August 04, 2016, 06:41:18 AM
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Durn nifty perspective.  WTG!

I had forgotten about Dr. Sam. He did try desperately to fit in. But ultimately he was a loner. I don't think you had anything to do with his departure. He just had other plans.

I see a camp and drink and listen to the Arctic Bound Bama bums in the future. This is cool!

Lessons from Day 6: 470miles

1. The Canadian DOT: I LOVE these guys and gals. It took me a minute to adjust to their traffic patterns. It's only a little different than how we do things but seemed to flow so much smoother. They have functional merging lanes that allow the flow of traffic to continue while you merge onto or turn off the road. And I found Canadian drivers to be very courteous. I did not have OR see any road rage episodes. Pretty amazing. People would move far right in the lane, (enough room for a motorcycle in the same lane!) to allow us to pass. They also mark all road hazards. Yes. Even the pot holes! Each pothole is marked with a cone and flag at the roadside and dips are marked with a sign as well.
2. The Canadian DOT: I HATE these guys and gals! Well, not really. The harsh winters are hell on the roads. When the weather breaks, it's a mad dash to repair the damage. Over the years, there has also been construction to straighten out the AlCan with a loss of almost 400 miles of the original highway.
3. Six long days on any motorcycle seat will begin to wear on you. Melony and I both need some cushion. We stopped for dinner at an A&W. There were 2 guys from Monterey, Mexico, who had been riding for 2 years. We drooled on their sheepskin pads and asked lots of questions(in my broken Spanish) about the comfort farkles.

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4. Don't bother driving tent stakes into a gravel bed in the Rockies - We camped for free that night at Laird River Hot Springs. They have a campground but it was full. The overflow parking was a gravel parking lot across the highway. If you arrive after 8:00pm, you camp for free. We were masters of the after 10:00pm arrival.
5. A dip in a hot springs at 1:00 in the morning is better than the smell of clean laundry.

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Photo credit: Lincoln Stewart

At the far right of this photo is the spring. The water is almost too hot to tolerate. If you make it to the end, there is a small tower of rocks. You add one if you made it there.

6. When camping near a hot springs where a bunch of "young adults" hang out, check behind the trees for the beer stash.

What the group learned about me: at this point, with rising fuel costs, the guys started to notice that they were paying a lot more for gas than I was. I rarely put more than 2 gallons in my tank at any stop. I think my highest fuel bill was $12.

Take aways: I hate the unexpected when riding. I'm a planner. I had mulled over the gravel ride on Top of the World for months. Some may call this anxiety, but it's a weird way I prepare my psyche. I didn't know that road construction on the Alaska Hwy meant sections of dirt and gravel. Sometimes miles of dirt and gravel. Okay. Heart in throat, head down, barrel through. The first section was deep gravel and I wobbled a couple times. The remaining sections weren't too bad. Hard packed and no elevation changes or deep spots. But I was on edge. The DOT had already surprised me 8)

Everything on the AlCan costs more. It really is a desolate place. It's not like being in the states where there are other routes you can take to get to the same place or 4 gas stations and a dollar general on every corner. Transit of consumables is expensive and the consumer pays the price. Most fuel stops had the old style pumps with rotary numbers and many were full service. Don't get in a hurry at a fill up in this area. No. They didn't check my oil and wash my windshield. What "full service" means is that you go in, find the proprietor, who may be cooking, being cashier at the gift shop or cleaning the bathrooms, and tell them you need fuel. You then wait at the pump(sometimes there were two). They come out and pump your gas and hand you a paper with a number written on it with a "x2" beside it. I finally figured this may be because the old pumps don't register the current price of fuel so they post it at half price. You take your paper inside and pay with the other items they hope you buy....when they come back inside from pumping for the line of bikes who rode in with you and the large RV who almost plowed your bike trying to get close to the pump.

For me, riding the Canadian Rockies was a welcome relief, even with its construction woes. The scenery was incredible and the rivers and lakes were the most clear, blue I have ever seen. For the most part, this land is untouched and the Alaska Hwy is the secret passage in to lives that are lived there without our knowing.

Nice write up!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Man you guys really make me want to take a trip up there. It seems like you guys felt rushed to get up there as quick as you could. I'd like to do it at a bit more of a relaxed pace.

I haven't really mentioned the rain. Suffice it to say, if we rode 14 days, it rained 16 of those.

Quote from: Chitza on August 05, 2016, 02:36:30 PM
I haven't really mentioned the rain. Suffice it to say, if we rode 14 days, it rained 16 of those.

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Lessons from Day 7: 440miles

1. When Canadians flash their lights at you...SLOW DOWN - No. It doesn't mean the Royal Canadian Mounted Police are running radar. We actually didn't see much LEO presence the entire trip. It does mean there is wildlife in the vicinity, most likely IN the road.
2. WIFI service in Canada sucks - and that's on the rare occasions it's available.
3. Texting while driving is not a problem on the AlCan. There is NO cell service. One hour before dropping in to 3 days of near non-existent service, my dog sitter emailed me and said she was about to leave the house and would not be back the next day. She had somewhere she had to be. My dogs were going to be alone, in my newly remodeled house, on my new floors for 36 hours. Kris came to my rescue.
It was a definite distraction.
4. Whitehorse is the capital of the Yukon Territory Province - they have cell service and wifi. Sigh of relief.
5. Don't judge a restaurant by its name -  Ricky's BBQ was decorated like a Chinese restaurant and had a Mexican cuisine and sushi inserts in the menu. I never did find BBQ on the menu.
6. Lincoln can actually survive on Fish 'n Chips at every meal.
7. Let Melony find the campgrounds. We were about to leave Fox Lake, Provincial campground, because it appeared full, all RVs, when she shouted at someone about any potential empty spots. He led us to tent paradise up in the woods behind the parking lot campers. "No one knows about these spots," he said. Their loss was our gain. Soft ground and a babbling brook.

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What the group learned from me: I may ride into an area that terrifies me, but they may have to get me out. I didn't actually ride every mile on my bike. Allen turned my bike around and rode it out of the woods the next morning. I guess he figured that was easier than helping me pick it up 5 times. He actually fit in my cockpit with luggage loaded! Thanks Allen!

Take aways: When we left Whitehorse, we left the AlCan to travel the Klondike Hwy to Dawson City. I knew the Top of the World was looming. I asked every rider we encountered who was going in the opposite direction what condition the road was in. I had them look at my bike and my tires to see if they thought I could make it. It wasn't like I had a choice. There was no way around. Again, preparing my mind is a weird process. It wasn't increasing my anxiety. That wasn't possible. It was more building my resolve to what I was gonna have to do. I was already becoming more comfortable with gravel. There was no brick in my gut when I encountered road construction or had to turn around in a gravel parking lot(every parking lot outside of populated cities was gravel. No point in paving when winter would destroy it). But the top of the world was 120 miles of the unknown. I am an information junkie. I needed my fix.

Lessons from Day 8: 290 miles

1. Only 290 miles (?) - I sneezed and the ride was over. 
2. There's only one way in and one way out of historical Dawson City - okay, more than one way. There is an airport. If you pull up Dawson City on Google Maps, you can see there is only one road. The Klondike Hwy. you turn around or ride the ferry across the Yukon River and begin the Top of the World Hwy. How did all these people get here?

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3. Bama fans are everywhere - When we walked in to Klondike Kate's for dinner, we heard a "Roll Tide." Tony was wearing his Alabama hat and a couple there noticed. They were from Tuscaloosa and she is a retired professor from the university.
4. Wait. What? -

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Tony and I went to the bathroom at the same time. When we came back to the table, we were laughing and looking at our phones. We had snapped the same picture in the bathroom.
5. Ferry decks are slick - We pulled in line to board the ferry. This was my first bike ride on a ferry, btw. I had no idea what to expect. They herded us into a corner. As I put my foot down I slipped. Thank goodness there was a metal box bolted to the deck by my foot and I wedged my boot up to it and straightened myself up. But how was I gonna get out? No traction to maneuver my bike back to get a clear path to the off ramp. (These are the things that go through a short riders head in situations that tall riders don't even notice).

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6. The border checkpoint is only open 12 hrs a day, 8am to 8pm. Customs is open 9am to 9pm. That's two different things. Oh, and the time zone changes when you cross in to Alaska. Alaska has its own time zone. We had planned on making it to Fairbanks that evening. No go. We were too late for the border so we camped just across the river at another Provincial campground.

7. "It'll be fine," is Allen's favorite phrase. - Don't expect Allen to have your back when preparing for bears.



If you can't tell from the video, Allen tied a rock to the end of the rope to help him throw it over. He either hit the limb with the rock or, if he got it over, the weight would wrap the rope around the limb 4 or 5 times. That's my tent under the 20# food bag. But "It'll be fine." His tent was on the other side of the campsite 8)

Take aways: Lincoln really does have a heart. Either that, or he was tired of my anxiety about the Top of the World. We stopped just east of Dawson City to fuel up and my anxiety was a thick cloud on my demeanor. When I came back to my bike, there was a message written on my windscreen.

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He said it was a quote from one of his firearms instructors. "Let it do!!" The bike is gonna do what it was built to do if I would just relax and let it perform. By the time we crossed the river I was mentally ready. And kinda disappointed when we realized we would be delayed until the next day. 

Lessons from Day 9: 390miles

1. The Carpenters - There is no way (for me) to ride the Top of the World Highway and not sing "I'm on top of the world looking down on creation..."
Having survived being bear bait for a night, we packed up camp and headed out. Dread was gone and was replaced with excitement.
2. Don't get too comfortable - the speed limit on Top of the World was 50mph for the most part. The road was nice, hard packed dirt and gravel. The rain in the few days before hadn't really affected the surface. I got comfortable pretty quickly, repeating in my helmet, "Let it do," and "power to the rear."  I relaxed and let myself enjoy the view. So comfortable that I didn't notice an upcoming uphill left hand turn. No biggy, except the deepest gravel on TOW was in that curve and I had so much speed I was gonna have to lean more than the gravel wanted to allow. I wobbled bad. No joke, in my head I heard Slede say "Shower on the throttle. It will solve the problem or end the suspense." By the time I stopped laughing I was still upright and had control.
3. Foxes are unpredictable(or maybe coyotes; it's not like I was studying for an animal husbandry test) - coming out of the afore mentioned curve, there was a furry animal on the right side of the road. He looked dead at me and took a step further to my right. Then decided he wanted to go the other way. I missed him by about 2 feet. Good thing I was still puckered from the curve. Saved a little energy that way.
4. Back on US soil - we had kept the same line up over TOW, but Lincoln was out of site. We caught up with him because he had stopped for pictures and a little off road fun. I had had all the excitement I could stand so I waved and carried on. I found a good stretch of terra firma and stopped for some pictures.

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I reached the border before the group. The border patrol officer looked at me and said, " You came up here by yourself?" To which I replied "no, but I haven't seen the DS guys I came with in about 30 minutes. They're kinda slow, ya know." He laughed, knowing they had stopped for pictures. He also told me I was about to ride the 13 best paved miles in Alaska with some really nice curves. He made no promises for the road condition after the pavement ended.

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5. Chicken, Alaska, Population 7, has no electricity or plumbing - Chicken, Alaska is one of the few remaining mining camps from the late 1890's. Everyone uses generators and outhouses. On any given day during the "summer" season, there will be a couple hundred tourists there. Don't ask to fill your camelback there. Unless you want to buy Dasani by the liter. Or catch rainwater...yes, it rained on us from Chicken to Fairbanks.

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6. Fairbanks had a heat wave - The week before we got there. Now they were on their 3rd straight day of rain with no change expected in the forecast for another day or so. We stayed in a hotel with a laundromat.

Take aways: Fairbanks is a typical city with all the amenities. Tony and  I rode the bus to Fred Meyers(their version of WalMart) and bought better rain gear.  Over pants and a cool pair of ice fishing gloves that fit over my summer mesh gloves.
But it was the people in the small towns, like Chicken, that caught my attention. They live in relative seclusion most of the year, I assume, by choice. There are precious few opportunities to earn money. Like the gas stations in these remote areas. They are do it all places. Restaurants. Gas stations. Groceries. Lodging. Hospitality businesses. Yet most of these people didn't seem to be "people" people. There were some who were very congenial. But there were many who seemed only to tolerate the intrusion of the tourist and some who were openly frustrated by our presence. I guess I would do the same. Get while the gettins good...and have my solitude for the next 8 months.

Karla, I'm really glad you are doing this ride report.  I know it's a lot of work.  It was interesting looking at the pics Ya'll posted on FB while on the trip but this is much better.  You're doing a great job on the writeup(http://advrider.com/styles/advrider_smilies/thumb.gif)

Thanks, Win. It is nice to know others are enjoying my convoluted thought process :)

Quote from: Chitza on August 07, 2016, 09:25:53 PM
Thanks, Win. It is nice to know others are enjoying my convoluted thought process :)

I am certainly enjoying it...

^^^ Definitely.

loving reading all this. Actually starting to think this might be fun on the ZRX...

Quote from: IceCold4x4 on August 08, 2016, 04:01:47 PM
loving reading all this. Actually starting to think this might be fun on the ZRX...

Its be fun on ANY bike......

I saw a nicely restored Puch scooter for $650..... Now, there's an adventure.

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.my bike will never be clean AGAIN....

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.

Awesome Ride Report!!!!!!

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Lessons from Day 10 - 3 feet

Day 10 lessons were a repeat of the lessons of day 2. Know your limits and the limits of your bike. It had rained for four days in the area but it was clearing. We were on our second day at the Fairbanks hotel and we were rested and getting antsy. A last minute decision was made to make an evening run to the Arctic Circle via the Dalton Hwy. I was still struggling with pet care at home and thought I might have to jump ship and find a way home. Road conditions were uncertain. Melony wasn't keen on riding either so we stayed "home"
while the boys rode. They pulled out at 6:30, saying they would be back before dark. They kept their promise, rolling in at 3:30am. Day 10 was theirs. Allen and Tony have posted pics and I'll add my video. Maybe Lincoln will throw in a few as well. The 3 feet on the day was when I pulled my bike out of the way for the guys to depart. As for me and Melony...what happens in Fairbanks, stays in Fairbanks 8)



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This is great!

Good on you for going after your dreams and pushing your limits.

Lessons from Day 11: 135 miles (plus about 12 miles of back tracking)

1. An oil change on the fly in Alaska required dumpster diving, stealth, and ingenuity - We all made plans for an oil change near the halfway point. I consulted with Landers at Tech 46 and we decided to switch my bike to a high quality synthetic and manage it by keeping a check on my oil and adding as needed. Changing my oil is a PITA and would not be easy in a parking lot. But we had ridden harder than I anticipated and I was concerned about the abuse my engine was taking. I didn't have problems, but I was skating on the edge.
We stopped at an Autozone and the guys bought oil. Don't expect the same policies in Alaska that we are afforded here. They don't take used oil but one of the drivers directed us to the nearest transfer station between Fairbanks and North Pole. Tony went dumpster diving and found some empty gallon jugs to use as oil pans and we played tag team changing their oil.

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2. The "North Pole" is actually south of Fairbanks - We rolled through the candy cane lined streets and stopped by Santa's house for souvenirs and gifts. You wouldn't think the store clerks would find any request unusual, but I got strange looks when I asked for a penguin ornament that would travel 5000 miles on a motorcycle without being destroyed.
3. A skinny man named Dick owns a bar, gift shop and lodge half way between Fairbanks and Denali National Park - Well, actually, it's owned by an older woman with a sense of humor. It had a strange mixed feeling of local hangout and tourist trap.

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4. Alaskan road crews are awesome - I know it's a surprise,  but when we left Skinny Dick's it started to rain. There was road construction, another surprise, on a metal grate bridge that crossed the Nenana River. I enjoyed crossing that bridge during construction in the rain so much I went back and did it three more times. Tony and I had arrived at the bridge before the others who had stopped for pictures or rain gear and we took the opportunity to don our wet weather gear. When preparing to depart, I had not fully snapped my hip pouch. You know, the one with my money, credit cards and passport inside? It fell off somewhere on the bridge and I didn't notice for several miles. A road crew member had noticed and stored it in the event I returned. Which I did with many thanks. Cool chick. She rides an f650gs.
5. Tourists are like cockroaches - do I really need to say anything more? Other than, I personally find a big difference between seeing the sights  and experiencing what a place has to offer that is different than what I know at home. Drawn by Denali National Park, tourists flood Healy, AK, in large RVs and busses during the very short summer.
6. Showers are extra - Get while the gettin's good. Just because you paid for a $40 campsite doesn't mean your shower is free. "Cleanliness is more important when godliness is not likely." - PJ O'Rourke. I skipped the $5 shower.

Take aways: We stopped that evening at 49th State Brewery for dinner. It is an upscale restaurant, brewery and tourist stop just north of Denali. They played the tourist game well. 49th State is 35 miles from the location where Chris McCandless' body was found, starved to death. Chris had set out to hike the old gold mining road now known as the Stampede Trail, surviving off meager rations and whatever Alaska's wilderness provided.  He had survived by taking shelter in the "Magic Bus" for three months, unable to find his way out or enough viable food. The bus, a retired 1946 International Harvester City of Fairbanks transit bus, was abandoned by a road crew in the 60s and had become a known shelter for hunters in the area. His story became the subject of many books and an award winning film, "Into the Wild."  Thirty five miles from where we sat, the tragedy that was Chris McCandless' life came to an end. Thirty five miles. The distance from where I live to downtown Birmingham. Thirty five miles. The distance of the average one way commute for most Americans. And in the courtyard of 49th State Brewery was the replica bus used in the film.

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Hundreds of people have made the thirty five mile trek from Healy, AK, to the original Magic Bus. Some have died due to the treacherous terrain and unpredictable nature of the Teklanika River that had swollen and prevented Chris from leaving. Thirty five miles from a place that was now very much abuzz with activity and Magic Bus trinkets for sale in the gift shop. I ate in silence for the most part. Contemplating how close I was to being lost in this adventure. In to the wild that is the reality of Alaska. The dichotomy of the life of those who choose to live there. Not the picture I dreamed. Not the novelty of Skinny Dick, Santa Clause or a toy bus on a shelf by 20 others just like it. The reality of wild Alaska.

Damn good post. Kinda crazy to think about how far 35 miles can be yet in our current society how quickly one normally covers that....

Lessons from Day 12: 382miles

1. RV sites, tent sites and drive up sites are not the same - We camped the night before within bike pushing distance of 49th State Brewery. It was convenient but confusing. We asked for a site with electricity so we could charge our devices so they gave us an RV site disguised as a mud hole. We noticed a couple bikes in a wooded area with plenty of spaces for more tents. But we were informed all the tent sites were reserved. With further investigation, there were open "drive up" sites that were available. Meaning there
Was a gravel pad for a car to park. We finally gave up arguing and just set up camp. No one seemed to notice or care.
2. Restrooms are for paying customers only - The meanest man in Alaska runs a gas station at the intersection of Parks Hwy in Cantwell and the Denali Hwy. He will let you know as soon as you open the door. Better hope there's not a line at the register and you have to pee before you make your purchase.
3. The sweetest lady in Alaska runs "The Roadhouse" near the intersection of Richardson Hwy and the other end of the Denali Hwy. Just in time for my cohorts to get fuel, too. They were running on fumes by the time we reached the end of Denali. I still had half a tank ;)
4. Always ask the store clerk - John at the Chevron in Tok referred us to the Eagles Claw Motorcycle Camp. Our host knows how to take care of motorcyclists and campers. My favorite campground. She had a sauna, a camp kitchen and a Moto shop on premises. Complete with a tire changer.

What the group learned about me: Too much gravel can shake my brain loose

Take aways: From the hatching of the plan to ride to Alaska there had been open offers for input in to the route. My input was always "My route will be to follow the tail lights in front of me." Alaska was my goal. Anything else was gravy. I neglected to mention that I don't like gravy 8)

We discussed riding through Denali National Park but rumors and forecast indicated it would be futile as clouds were going to obscure all views. So we headed south with the final goal to be swinging east and north back to Tok for a next day run at the portion of the AlCan we had missed by taking the Klondike to Dawson City. We stopped in to see Mr. Grumpus and not use his bathroom and to check the GPS for a route. I knew by the gleam in the DS riders' eyes that I was not gonna be happy. They had found the Denali Hwy. 120 miles of dirt road.  I did my routine, asking a woman in a mini van who had driven the road the day before what I could expect. I made a half hearted statement about back tracking on pavement and meeting them in Tok but I didn't go with my gut and hopped on the Denali with that brick in my stomach. Lincoln's message was still visible on my windscreen and I tried desperately to calm myself. I kept reminding myself that I had accomplished the Top of the World. Why was this one so hard for me to accept? Maybe it was the surprise. The unknown and unexpected. The general exhaustion that comes with riding that far. I can't really say. I just know it was the hardest 110 miles I have ever ridden. By my assessment the road was in much worse condition than TOW. Washboard sections. Pot holes and slick spots. With very little suspension travel, street tires and an extra 80lbs of gear I was not having fun. I would sigh in relief when I found sections that were as good as the road construction we had encountered. I found myself at complete physical and mental exhaustion by the time we hit Paxson.  My bike and I both took a beating. All I can say is I am thankful the guys didn't kick my ass off the side of that mountain...because the last 10 miles of Denali was a very nice smoothly paved curve Mecca.

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Still liking this. Great write up.

Lessons from Day 13: 386miles

1. Did someone mention that it rained? - And just because the sun is up in Alaska, doesn't mean it's warm. We packed up camp in a light drizzle and headed out. The drizzle became rain. I heard reports of 52 degrees and 40 degrees. When you're wet, it's all cold.
2. Rain does not slow the road crews - They still work, and when you're riding with somewhere to be, you still ride.
3. Canadian border patrol does not care that you're wet - The border patrol officer was very chatty with me. Lots of nosy questions. "Where did you meet these people you're riding with?", "How long have you known them?", "How long did you plan this trip?"   I felt she was really asking, "Are you guys crazy?"
4. Formaldehyde makes you psychotic - I keep a pack of cheap cigarettes in my pack for pan handlers. When they ask for money, they will usually settle for a free cigarette. Melony and I were approached by a barefoot "traveler" near the Alaska/Canadian border and I gave him a few cigarettes. He insisted on giving me a few of his special ones in exchange. Nothing else he said made sense. They went in the firepit that night.
5. When you're cold and wet, a place called "Frosty's" doesn't seem like a good place to stop for dinner. But it is. Do it.

View from Frosty's in Haines, Junction, YT, Canada

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The ride from in to Haines Junction had been beautiful, even with the clouds and rain. Nice curvy roads and occasional views of the mountain range.

6. Store clerks are a good resource of information - The rain, cold and construction had worn us all down. I couldn't even get warm when we stopped. Teeth chattering, shivering kinda cold. Consensus was a hotel room was in our near future. When we arrived in Whitehorse, we had completed the entire length of the AlCan Hwy. our reward was going to be a soft bed and a hot shower. Except the Canadian government didn't oblige us. Whitehorse is the capital of the Yukon Territory Province and they were hosting a summit of government officials.  Every hotel room within a one hundred mile radius was booked. The clerk at the gas station got out a phone book and called every out of the way place she could think of. And then started calling campgrounds. She found us a place at Robert Stevens Service campground. At least they had hot showers and a coffee shop with fresh made pastries.
7. When they say the shower costs a loonie, take three - The campground shower costs a loonie(Canadian one dollar coin). But that was for 5minutes. I only had one. So it was a race. Get everything ready, soap in one hand, shampoo poured in to the other. Like a sprinter on the starting line, I dropped my coin in the slot and raced to beat the hot water to the finish line. I actually made it with about 15 secs remaining to just enjoy the hot water.
8. U Haul will give you a break on a rental if you are going where they need equipment delivery. Especially if you look pathetic and beg.

Take aways:   I had some regrets about not making it to the Arctic Circle sign. So close and I wigged out. I will not likely have another chance. But from the beginning, I said my goal was to go as far as my body and my bike would allow me to go. In my mind, Alaska would be my ultimate prize. But in reality whatever distance I made would be more adventure than I had ever accomplished. Even if it was to the end of my driveway, packed with the intention of going to Alaska.
And so we woke on the morning of Day 14. Radar check: more rain. My body was shutting down and all my gear had failed. It was still wet. Hanging from the edge of the picnic table trying to coax our neighbor's campfire for some warmth. My only pair of jeans were wet all the way to my knees. My boots were a slosh fest. I had worn plastic grocery bags over my socks the day before in an attempt to keep my feet dry with a little success. I made the call. U haul had a truck in Whitehorse that needed to be delivered to...Montana. Perfect. I told the group my plan and we said our goodbyes. It wasn't easy to watch them ride off without me. We had not been more than a few feet from each other in two weeks. Well, other than the miles that separated us when their skill out rode mine. There was comfort in knowing that Lincoln's track was in front of me to follow and Tony, Allen and Melony were in my rear view mirror. Now I was alone.

I had one ratchet strap and a pack of wet clothes. I was scheduled to pick up the truck at 1:30. I sat by my neighbor's smoldering campfire and tried to warm and dry my gear. I packed and got dressed, found the nearest Walmart and headed across town. A new (dry) pair of jeans, a set of ratchet straps and warm socks. I don't like shopping at Walmart, but the familiarity, a piece of home, something predictable and recognizable was calming.

And so I loaded my bike and began the journey home.

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Arms folded, foot tapping the floor. Eyes on the screen, waiting for more. :o

Back at work on both jobs this week. Next installment is half written. I'll try to get it posted tonight ;)

great report. one of these days I'll plan a trip there, just have to figure out timing and logistics but hopefully will be able to spend a couple of weeks, maybe with a passenger. my daughter is only 8 but hope in the future she'll want to go do some riding with her dad...

As for your decisions, it's always better to listen to your body and think about your plans and actions. It seems like you made the right decisions.

I"d be curious to hear your post ride gear review. what worked and what didn't. what gear would you take again, what would you leave. What you would spend more money on (rain gear?) vs. going cheap...

thanks for taking the time to do this. I know it takes a lot of effort. it's like the 2-3 hours I spend every so often to get 3-4 minutes of good video. :) I appreciate the effort (riding and writing!).

The trip home:

Uhaul gave me six days (from Friday at 1:30pm) to get to Great Fallls, MT. I was there by 10:30am Sunday morning. I retraced the miles we had ridden on the Alaska Hwy, figuring I would at least know where to camp. I was planning a dip in the hot springs at Laird River, but when I got there, I wasn't tired. So on I drove. Funny how a place that was completely foreign 2 weeks before had a familiarity. Like you own it even though you really just borrowed it. You will tell stories about it. And if someone says they are going by there, you will reminisce and glow as you share it with them. You know the terrain and recognize it like a crossroad in your hometown. As I drove these roads with my bike in the back, I thought, "Man these roads would be fun to ride!" And I smiled, because I had.

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But this time I got to see things I had not seen on the trip up. Mountains, rivers and wildlife. Four HERDS of buffalo, I stopped counting caribou at 25, 3 bears, two BIG moose, a wild horse, 2 red foxes, some beaver looking creature(2 of those) and deer(I didn't count those). And finally, the Eagles. Alaska and the Eagles. Mission accomplished.

I off loaded the bike in Great Falls, MT, and contacted Don. He was 167 miles west of me. Just too far in the wrong direction. The guys at Uhaul were great. They gave me the best non interstate route around traffic in Great Falls and on to Billings. Just a few extra purchases had made packing the bike a challenge. The weather was perfect and now I had to find room for the rain gear and liners I had been wearing. I got creative.

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My first time ever in Montana, and I was riding. Found the severed arm of one of Don Quixote's giants.

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.... and a nice hotel in Billings.

While I was traveling in Montana, I got word that Buzz was planning to meet me half way and escort me home. At first I thought he was coming on his bike, but he showed up with my Jeep and this is how I made the final leg home through Wyoming, South Dakota, Iowa, Missouri, Kentucky, Illinois and Tennessee:

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Truth in reporting: I started out keeping a close eye on my mileage. But I gave that up by day 5. So my mileage was calculated by google maps. Total: 5380miles

Moto lessons:

No. You don't need a dual sport bike to make this trip:   But I sure would have been happier on one. But now I can't claim to be a novice dirt rider anymore. Granted, the construction, dirt and gravel portions of the trip were stressful for me. I've been chasing dual sport riding for a couple of years. A dirt bike, a dual sport bike, and limited excursions off road. When I left, I didn't believe I could do it, especially on a street bike. I sure wasn't "enjoying" the ride when we took off down the Denali Hwy, but I did it. At the end of the highway, I was upright and alive. Dammit guys, now I have to say I can do it 8)

Don't second guess yourself too much:   I made some last minute decisions on gear that shortened my endurance. I did too much "hoping" my gear would be enough. I should have tested my rain gear and heated vest. I was wet and cold when I didn't need to be.

There's no place like home:  Alaska and points in between are beautiful and seeing things I've never seen was an amazing experience. But truthfully, the fun was in the adventure. We had short spurts of fun, curvy roads but overall the riding around here has more to offer for just plain fun. I've always said I can travel to anywhere in the world from Birmingham, Alabama. And when the roads north of here are closed for winter, I can still ride :)


Some general things I learned:

*Learn to let it go. Expect the unexpected.

Funny thing about me, I'm a sagittarian. Noted to be spontaneous and free spirited. But I was born on the cusp of Capricorn. Folks who are more likely to be regimented and very organized. I have two large plastic bins at my house, packed with camping gear. One is labeled camping kitchen, the other camping bedroom. Taped to the top of each box is a list of its contents and what last minute things need to be added. I can throw them in my Jeep at the last minute and have a well thought out plan for a weekend trip. I say I'm well prepared to be spontaneous :)

My phone note pad is full of lists. Plans for Vintage, a list of grocery staples to keep on hand, daily to do lists that get updated every morning while I drink coffee...and 4 separate lists for my Alaska trip. (Yes, extra clutch lever was on one of those lists). But no list will prepare you for the unexpected. And traveling to unknown territory will always throw you a curve. Relax and trust yourself and your bike. Let it do.

*If you make a decision, own it.

I didn't realize the disadvantages of my bike for this trip. Not that a 650 could not make this trip, but when joined by three full liter bikes, it was a mechanical and mental struggle. I think I have covered the weaknesses of my bike ad nauseum, but it's mine, I love it, I rode it, and it got me home.

The best way to conquer fear is to face it:   I'm not sure if research would have informed me about the construction we would encounter, or if I willingly avoided that information, but I feel pretty certain I would have bailed on the trip had I known ahead of time. Fear rules me at times. Maybe paralyzed with fear is a good analogy. Have you ever been there? Unable to speak. Unable to move out of pure fear? Like "standing in a dark alley with a big bad ass thug pointing a gun at your head" fear. Knowing you may or may not walk out alive. Knowing you may or may not have whatever it is that he wants that could save your life. A bit dramatic, but that's how intense it can be. Avoidance. I'm going with that. I didn't want to know so I wouldn't back out. NW Territory, throw it at me. I've got what you want.

Would I make this trip again? No. But that is not really a negative statement. I'm glad I went. I'm glad we did it the way we did. If we hadn't pushed, if I had the perfect bike, unfailing gear, spectacular weather and smooth curvy roads I wouldn't have learned so much. I suppose that was my goal for this trip. To learn exactly what I was capable of accomplishing. Don't make this trip if you're not willing to face all those ugly facts about yourself and grow from it.

I came home from this trip a different person. More confident in my riding ability and more confidence in myself in general. And a taste for more adventure...

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Jeff asked for a review of the gear I took and what I would have done differently. Following Lincoln's example, here it is:

Bike: 2003 BMW F650CS @38,xxx miles when the trip began. Single cylinder Rotax engine, belt driven, dry sump transmission.

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Maxima Extra 4 high performance synthetic oil 15w50.

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Avon Storms were my choice for longevity. I can't say enough good stuff about these tires. Here they are with 5400 miles on them:

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For the trip I added a repaired Cee Baileys touring windscreen and an adjustable rear shock.

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Luggage: BMW OEM rear seat, tail rack and tank bag. I checked the parts catalog. Total is just under 48L of storage. The bags are canvas with an inner waterproof liner that is seam sealed. Plenty of extra pockets for quick access items and easy to mount and dismount. Other than failure of the seams(something I should have checked due to the age) and limited space, I have no complaints. Side bags were not an option due to access to the fuel port. My tank is under the seat. Cost for bags and supports that fit an out of date BMW was price prohibitive 8)

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Riding gear:
Tourmaster Trinity 3 jacket - I love this jacket. It's a true 3 season jacket with good air flow when vents are open. There is a rain proof lining sewn between the inner and outer layers and vent zippers have a Velcro flap to make them water tight. I had a small amount of seepage around the collar, but that was most likely run off from my helmet. My only complaint is the Velcro closure at the neck. The edge of the Velcro is not well covered and it would scratch my neck and it roughed up the chin strap on my helmet. I will probably sew a strip of neoprene over this edge.

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Fieldsheer mesh pants with liner that I bought 6-7 years ago. They keep on doing the job. For our mild winters they are plenty warm enough. Without the liner, they are a good summer pant with great airflow. I took a pair of snowmobile pants, hoping for cold and wet weather protection. They worked great for cold, but failed for wet weather after hours of rain. They do compress nicely so they weren't much of a burden after I abandoned them for a pair of cheap, rain overpants at Walmart. For $20 I'll keep using these.

Helmet - I bought an Arai Signet Q a little over a year ago. Lightweight and good vent function. The fact that I never think about my helmet when riding says it all to me. It does its job and doesn't cause me any problems. Ever.

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Gloves- 4 pair...I love my Cortech mesh gloves that are falling apart. I knew they wouldn't last the trip but they are my glove of choice, so they had to go with me. The holes in the thumb and index finger proved to be irritating on the longs days, so they were stuffed in my bag and used when everything else got too wet.

I bought a new pair of Klim Savanna gloves. The Velcro wrist closure tab pulled off the second time I put them on. I didn't wear them again.

Fieldsheer winter gloves - warm and toasty but they didn't do well with the rain. I begged a couple pairs of latex gloves from the deli at a gas station and wore those under my gloves which helped keep my hands dry and warm.

My go to glove for the trip was a pair of Fox off road mesh glove. Good in rain when coupled with the latex gloves and they dry fast. They also fit nicely under a pair of neoprene ice fishing gloves I bought in Fairbanks. Those ice fishers know how to make a warm, waterproof glove!

Boots: I made a mistake here. Last minute, I put on my favorite pair of boots. BMW road touring boots that are 6 years old. They were originally waterproof but at their age and due to a compromise of the waterproof flap inside the zipper, they no longer deflected the rain. I have a pair of Daytona GTX Ladystar boots I got off eBay, but I chose my BMW boots for off the bike comfort. Big mistake.

Camping gear:
Tent- Alps Mountaineering Lynx1. I have the 2 man tent and love it, but I had to save space, so I got the one man tent and footprint on close out. It was easy to set up with a two pole cross over construction and a vestibule that kept my boots and camp shoes dry and dirt out of my tent. It packs down to 4"x12". Keep in mind I am 5'1", but there was plenty of room beside my sleep pad and at the foot for all the other gear I didn't want to leave out in the rain at night: riding jacket, pants, helmet, and shower bag. (Speaking of shower bag, I did take makeup which I never used. That would have saved me about a cup of space. Hey! I am a girl. Don't judge me :) ).

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Sleeping bag - Northface 20degree Kilo mummy bag and Thermorest compressible pillow. I have neck problems and a good size supportive pillow is a necessity. The bag and pillow fit nicely into a Sea to Summit eVent waterproof compression bag. They compressed to about the size of one and a half soccer balls.

Big Agnes Qcore insulated sleeping pad - man, I LOVE LOVE LOVE this thing. Pack size 3"x8" and is 4" thick when inflated. It is 24" wide and 6ft long. The insulated layer kept me from getting cold when many air mattresses transfer your body heat to the ground. I have never had good luck with the vinyl air mattresses. I always get the defective ones that spring a leak and leave me sleeping on the ground. Plus they can't compare with the pack down size of the Qcore. You can inflate it by blowing it up by mouth or using a 12v pump. I didn't want to blow it up because I was afraid it would leave moisture inside the pad, and it would take too long. I used a large plastic bag fit over the valve with a rubber tube.  Fill the bag with air, gather the open end to seal it, and roll toward the pad. It pushes the air into the valve. The first attempt took me 12 cycles of air, but by the 3rd or 4th night I was down to 2 1/2 bags full. Much quieter when you're setting up late and the plastic bag took up much less space than a pump.

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Helinox camp chair: love my chair. I just didn't use it. Wasted space, but had we been somewhere without a picnic table or chairs, it would have been worth the space it took.

Camp stove: Optimus Crux Lite cook system. I prefer the performance of my JetBoil, but at less than half the space, I chose the Optimus. Fuel, coffee cup and stove burner pack down to about 3"x5". It doesn't work well when it's windy and uses more fuel than the JetBoil because it takes longer to boil water. I only used it for water to make coffee and oatmeal so it performed just fine for that. Had I been trying to cook meals at camp, I would have been less satisfied.

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Miscellaneous:
Blue Fuel charging system -  priceless. I charged it before I left and 2-3 times while I was gone, but only from completely dead once. It has a USB charge port and a flashlight. I kept my phone, SENA headset and GoPro charged. It also served as a jump pack had anyone suffered a dead battery. Measures 1.5"x4"x8", (approx)

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I joked that we were looking to send unused gear home and my inventory included a cork screw, bottle opener and a pillow case, but it was actually a little more then that....list of actual unused gear as follows:
Cork screw/bottle opener
Pillow case
Shovel
Helinox camp chair(it was out for 10minutes, one time)
Fuel bottle(which I wouldn't leave home anyway)
3 small cans of DEET(I only used one)
Mosquito head net

Total it would have saved me about 1-2L of space.

What I wish I had taken:
Real rain gear
My GTX boots
Better gloves
More LS shirts(I had one and a sweatshirt)
Fewer short sleeved shirts
Heated vest

All in all I am pleased with my luggage, how it performed and how easy it was to pack my necessities. I bought a few extras along the way(gloves and rain pants) but most of my gear problems were down to poor planning, last minute changes and lack of testing before the ride.

It took me over a week after I got home to feel "normal" again. I would go sit on my bike in the garage. That had been my norm. My first trip out on the bike after I got home was a 100mile trip to warm the oil so I could check it. Don't ask. It's the procedure. It really only takes a 20 minute ride, but I lost track of time. The hundred miles seemed like a trip around the block. I'm so spoiled now.

To be truthful, I have regrets. Not making it to the Arctic Circle Sign. Not making the whole trip. Letting my fear get the better of me. I learned a lot about my bike, what gear works, the gear I need(and what I don't), my abilities as a rider and me as a person. Next trip I will expect more. You guys were a great inspiration and support for what I did accomplish. Your advice and encouragement were the most important things I took with me.

Good stuff Karla.

All things considered, I truly think what you did is as much an accomplishment, if not more so, than what the others did. Not take ANYTHING away from their accomplishments, but, let's be real....

Your first ever big road trip.
You made it to Alaska on a 650 single, without proper luggage storage options.
You managed The Denali with said setup, on street tires (the level of accomplishment MUST be weighed in relation to the bike and rider's prior experience and skill set)
You rode many miles on the return, solo.

You did well. Better than many others might have done - male or female.

And you are correct. Once you do trips involving 500, 600, 700 mile days...... 100 miles seems like nothing.

Good job. If it were flying, I'd say you have certainly "earned your wings".

Thank you, Brian.

Please don't feel regret.  Keep in mind that a large portion of motorcyclists never ride more than 100 miles from home.  You have done something which most people only dream about.  Personally, I will not be able to ride to Alaska until I retire, so for me, at this moment in time, it is only a dream.  For you, it is a fond memory.

All of you guys who went to Alaska this year have got my wheels turning.  My wife and I are having our 15 year anniversary next year, and we have started talking about flying to Alaska and renting a motorcycle for a week.  Her only requirement is that we take a day cruise into the fjords.

So you can see the impact that you guys have on others.  Your adventures have already inspired others.  That is special and meaningful.

And don't say you will never do it again.  You learned enough that the next time will be a cake walk. 

And you had a grand adventure.

After starting your story I was thinking hell I could do it on the ZRX, then after finishing it I honestly don't know. But if you want to try it again, I think I'll have to see how a 1 liter street bike does. But then again I'm a glutton for punishment.

Ice, I wouldn't say you couldn't do it on the ZRX. You absolutely could. I'm just saying it would be more enjoyable on a bike that will take something other than 100% street tires and with a little better suspension for gravel and rough roads. You can avoid roads like Top of the World and Denali Hwy, but you can't avoid the construction. Most of that wasn't too bad. It all depends on what you're purpose in the trip will be. If you are wanting a comfy, see the sights ride, take a bike that does the tough stuff easier so you can take your attention off the road long enough to look at the mountain views :)

And if you are an experienced off road rider, those highways will present NO challenge to you. If not for the views you may find the actual road to be boring.

Also, keep in mind, we're talking about 2 roads I rode that totaled less than 300miles out of a much longer trip ;)

I just want to say thank you girl for taking us along with you through this ride report. A lot of time has been put in to the words and it is well written. As for you as a rider, I am amased by your stamina to endure the mileage and weather on a motorcycle. I for one am proud to say I know a lady that made the trip. Hat is off to you. You are one determined, tough girl!

 ;)

Most "EXCELLENT RIDE REPORT." Thanks for taking us along.

You are certainly a determined young lady. What an accomplishment.

No longer can you claim to be a novice. "Experienced" is a more proper definition now!

Awesome report Karla(http://advrider.com/styles/advrider_smilies/thumb.gif)

Just a few random thoughts.

I have been riding for 35+ years and around 450,000 miles.  I have never done a trip as strenuous as what you guys did.  I have ridden some long days but never multiple long days and camping.  Only a small percentage of the riders out there have done rides like that. 

Regrets?  I think that is normal.  When I do a long trip I always have some regrets because there is always stuff that I wish I could have done but didn't.  There is never enough time on a trip to see & do everything.  You're still young.  Don't count out the idea of going back again some day. 

Thanks for posting this report and good luck with your future dual sport adventures.

I was going to put together a video from my GoPro footage, but alas, that was another piece of equipment I didn't test before the trip. I never did figure out the right combo of buttons to push so most of the videos are when I didn't know I was recording and none of when I thought I was. This one is Melony's and the only footage I have worth posting!



Thank you all for your kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed the report.

Quote from: Chitza on August 26, 2016, 07:19:47 AM
I was going to put together a video from my GoPro footage, but alas, that was another piece of equipment I didn't test before the trip. I never did figure out the right combo of buttons to push so most of the videos are when I didn't know I was recording and none of when I thought I was. This one is Melony's and the only footage I have worth posting!

Thank you all for your kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed the report.

I was there....if I'd known you were having issues with it we could have had a tech session....sorry.

Thanks, Allen. I didn't really know it wasn't working until I uploaded the videos lol

I'm loving this ride report.  Hope there is more to come.