Well this has been missing. Let's us talk about the most frarkled type of bike in history of $10k mods on a $5k bike.
My farkles are to extensive to list. I'll start with my current load of dumb ideas.
THE D (DUMB) STROM
I wanted real wind protection. I didn't want to spend 15k for the kits currently on the market. So I had my vstrom apart. I looked closely at the fairing stay. So I ordered a $60 aftermarket stay, and the required trash can.
To be updated.
Quote from: Buzz on November 19, 2017, 10:21:08 AM
My farkles are to extensive to list. I'll start with my current load of dumb ideas.
THE D (DUMB) STROM
I wanted real wind protection. I didn't want to spend 15k for the kits currently on the market. So I had my vstrom apart. I looked closely at the fairing stay. So I ordered a $60 aftermarket stay, and the required trash can.
To be updated.
Pics(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/13840f3b9a0659bc9fbd2ef0764f0dca.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/689b3ec4c8e279cbf1f35d3760146791.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/bd5a45051290dea5e2cf26a33c4ea615.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/f6474704c97bb37b0d4072c6879f061a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/0bc2d37b20165607e403127206082636.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/da4a7622b3fe899e986550068aaa7dcf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/b97fb3ac094b25d5771b1db8faf77f39.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/ac6ed19f9cce24bc303d6e79ddc22f81.jpg)
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More to come
Quote from: Buzz on November 19, 2017, 10:24:43 AM
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You made a rally fairing out of a trash can?! ???
You are not allowed to come near my bike. She is a virgin, but I'll be giving her some love soon.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Dual-Sporting/i-MshbNhc/0/e2771737/XL/IMG_0034-XL.jpg)
My previous DR650 is now in David's collection.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Dual-Sporting/i-GbTh4MF/0/8eb4fa16/L/2014-02%20Snow%20Day%20%281%29-L.jpg)
All DR650 owners need to check out the Adventure Oz channel on YouTube.
I love those guys
Quote from: Nice Goat on November 19, 2017, 10:53:56 AM
You made a rally fairing out of a trash can?! ???
You are not allowed to come near my bike....
You should be fine...as long as he doesn't have a roll of duct tape and a wad of zip ties in his hand 8)
Quote from: Chitza on November 19, 2017, 03:15:40 PM
You should be fine...as long as he doesn’t have a roll of duct tape and a wad of zip ties in his hand 8)
:o Those are 2 of mans best friends :o .
Quote from: Nice Goat on November 19, 2017, 10:53:56 AM
You made a rally fairing out of a trash can?! ???
You are not allowed to come near my bike. She is a virgin, but I'll be giving her some love soon.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Dual-Sporting/i-MshbNhc/0/e2771737/XL/IMG_0034-XL.jpg)
My previous DR650 is now in David's collection.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Dual-Sporting/i-GbTh4MF/0/8eb4fa16/L/2014-02%20Snow%20Day%20%281%29-L.jpg)
I have ur old 650 now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171119/e57ef46c9172df4d8c107f52382ab519.jpg)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Well I bought a H4 LED head light for the DR650 from advmonster. http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4/ and I thought I would give it a quick review. If anybody has rode a DR650 the stock headlight does not light up very well. I had two objectives when I got this bulb. Objective 1 was a brighter more white headlight so other cars can see me during the day when I ride and Objective 2 was to free up some battery wattage to be able to run my headed gear.
Lets first talk about the bulb. The H4 Native comes as a complete set. No separate boxes that you have to find a place to store, and a fan all built in to one. Over all quality seems well made. Its definitely feels beefy and well made in the hands. It fit perfect in the H4 housing to include not trimming of the rubber boot on back. Total install about 5 minutes.
H4 Bulb
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/27d67519bbf47e2c6f4f49a0c9082ef6.jpg)
Cooling fan
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/f7903584ba7adb4801253ce6beeb5ba7.jpg)
Cooling fins
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/9df4acbfeaeaf17b115e038d8a4c8c78.jpg)
Now lets get to what everybody wants to know. How do they look. I've took some photos of the stock headlight along with the new and approved.
Stock Low Beam
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/8ca2c955057018a9c25c187a23d327a9.jpg)
Stock High Beam
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/b051159e8eeb94ceae478a5f0a9dceca.jpg)
H4 Low Beam
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/31ad36d10a61639e6ef89680d0526e4a.jpg)
H4 High Beam
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171120/dcbcaf1de39f03314a675ea21bfa1d63.jpg)
Over all I'm happy with the outcome. The new LED definitely seems more focused which could be a problem for some, but for me it doesn't matter b/c I'm also running a set of Advmonster model 44 (flood).
I feel I have achieved both my objectives. Objective 1 the light is much brighter than the standard bulb and Objective 2 with the saved watts I should have no problem now running my headed jacket and glove liners.
that's a really good beam pattern. is the stock location used, or did you have to space it out of the reflector some?
makes me want to do something to the drz that is less scatter bomb ish
Quote from: kylepeterson on November 25, 2017, 06:50:35 AM
that's a really good beam pattern. is the stock location used, or did you have to space it out of the reflector some?
makes me want to do something to the drz that is less scatter bomb ish
No spacers needed the bulb fit like oem.
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I changed to Tusk fat handlebar today (CR high bend) with Rox risers also. Added Tusk handguards with built-in LED turn signals (saved 21 watts). Removed useless switches, grab bars, tail anchor, huge brake light, passenger pegs, helmet lock, kickstand switch, clutch switch, etc. Box of removed crap weighs about 10 pounds.
My stiffer springs will be here on Monday. Going to put more grease on all the bearings and linkages while I have it torn down. Japanese dual sports are known for having dryish bearings and linkages from the factory.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171128/43d11e758df5cebbe1daf78e0b80c2ab.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171128/c30357c9a64b26b1cf757bc421203ccf.jpg)
Completed install of jet kit and carb mods today. Removed forks and drained the oil. Checked (added) grease on steering head bearings. Still waiting for my stiffer springs...
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171202/545e9c91ff1eb25e9a32cfad786c4503.jpg)
Worked on it all day yesterday and finished up this morning. Got the swingarm bolt and all the linkages greased. Stiffer fork and shock springs installed, along with Cogent DDC inserts. Longer (+2") cables and brake line installed. LED conversion completed with diode harness so the indicator works correctly. Aux lights installed (one 30° spot and one 60° flood).
The new springs gave it more height/ground clearance. This thing almost feels like an XR650 now. ;D
Filled the tank with gas, and it fired right up. Time for a shakedown ride...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/d11dc6a2d4875e8a2aab20419a3175f0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/5641adcb4a69cf126859b81ec830aec1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/a176e825501135b9d3ec0793357e798e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171210/83eef89d55926fa56d6505d89aa18e63.jpg)
A common problem with the DR650 is that opening the airbox can cause some surging at speed due to the conflicting air needs of the airbox and the carb vacuum filter. I noticed a little of this on my test ride up around 60mph, so I took an old bin and created a divider wall between the two. Also, it's very difficult to clean the inside of the vacuum filter, so I covered it with a pre-filter cloth and sprayed a little filter oil over it. We'll see how this works.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171214/8ada3bb9d6365c70fbfff7f6f0111a2e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171214/0e4fbfa28980d39427df0e7c94cc364b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171214/46876dc4d1f8d177564cafa4bc42ded5.jpg)
Quote from: Nice Goat on December 10, 2017, 01:16:11 PM
Worked on it all day yesterday and finished up this morning. Got the swingarm bolt and all the linkages greased. Stiffer fork and shock springs installed, along with Cogent DDC inserts. Longer (+2") cables and brake line installed. LED conversion completed with diode harness so the indicator works correctly. Aux lights installed (one 30° spot and one 60° flood).
The new springs gave it more height/ground clearance. This thing almost feels like an XR650 now. ;D
Filled the tank with gas, and it fired right up. Time for a shakedown ride...
very very nice. I hope everyone who had ever complained about their stock headlight caught that part about using one spot and one flood for supplemental lighting.
:-)
Weight reduction was not my only goal, but it was a goal. Suzuki's website claims that the 2018 DR650 weighs 366 pounds with a 3.4 gallon tank.
With all of my mods, including the larger gas tank, skid plate, case armor, aux lighting, etc., I added only one pound. Mine weighs 367.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/People-and-Places/i-QfPt37s/0/8cb97c58/L/IMG_0228-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/People-and-Places/i-NNg3XMn/0/4ee651fb/M/IMG_0227-M.jpg)
My DR650 pulls strong now, but there is a delayed response off idle and the power is not very linear. I've heard that the pumper carb fixes these issues, so I just ordered one from ProCycle. Hopefully that'll smooth out the response and eliminate the vacuum issues.
Yes it will. If set up correctly it will enable you to lug it further er than before.
Getting it directly from procycle is a good move. They should have the tune very close. They are DR zen masters.
I got mine off a Harley 1200. It was a pita to set up. I had to change everything.
The only warning I'll give relates to the adapters they use. The engine side mouth is slightly smaller than the bt40 carb. They send an adapter ring. Over time I got a vacuum leak there. A wrap of electrical tape fixed that.
Enjoy the lugability. 8)
Ordered Friday -- arrived Monday -- installed Tuesday.
Went for a little 30-mile test ride around north Cullman County. Bike runs purrrrfect! No more surging/bucking/herky-jerky. Power delivery is crisp, linear, and predictable. This is the way a DR650 was meant to ride!
Bike has 300 miles on it now, so I'm going to go ahead with the first oil change. Hopefully I can start putting some miles on this thing now that winter/cold/flu/etc is nearly finished...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/dc1770983fb6094fa273b402996f9aa9.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180227/00e94ca5e1e1ccd0756365bdc159cce9.jpg)
So.. when is the big unveiling? About time for another trip to the mountains.
Check the dirt rides section... Going riding in Talladega on Sunday.
Digging your mods and build!
In other news... This past Saturday, this happened:
Thought I'd do some early prep work on the DR650. Get ahead of the game getting it ready for Colorado. Let's get those steering head bearings inspected and greased......
Picture my DR650 on the lift stand with nothing on the front end still attached. Nothing.
Handle bars with all wiring, throttle cables, brake lines, etc attached, hanging from a strap hooked to bracket on the garage roof.
And then the beast decides to shift ever so slightly and fall off the lift stand.
I now have an ignition switch with its wiring guts ripped out.
Other random wires, ripped from somewhere (?) just staring at me. Speedo cables, throttle cables and other stuff in who-knows-what condition.
I wrestled the big pig back onto the lift and did my best to make sure it wouldn't fall off again. I called it a night, closed the garage door, turned off the light and went inside.
Since then I have finished the front fork work and got them back on the bike.
I will have to remove the top triple clamp so I can remove the stock ignition module. It is beyond any hope of being able to be salvaged.
I have reviewed the schematic and found online info on what wires to do what with and where to install the necessary 100 ohm resistor to make the CDI power play nice.
If the wiring tips I found are legit and I don't let all the magic smoke out of various bits here-and-there, the plan is to use a simple generic ignition switch and hopefully all will be good.
Hopefully......
Quote from: Brian A on February 28, 2018, 07:57:42 PM
...
And then the beast decides to shift ever so slightly and fall off the lift stand.
I now have an ignition switch with its wiring guts ripped out.
...
Dayum.... that sux.
Bummer man on the drop.
Installed a sock filter under the gas cap (idea stolen from MotoGuzzi)
Marked 1/2 gallon intervals on gas tank (idea stolen from DavidHaynes)
Went back to one solid piece of fuel line (i.e., no inline filter)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180307/1230edb0f91cb55fe71816914ddd58c4.jpg)
Dang Glenn this makes me want to buy another DR650. :P
Hopefully my buns will be happy...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180318/afc398950464c670bdd8f7ee42c2c258.jpg)
Update on my situation: Finally got the wiring figured out and back together. I took the time to fix some shoddy wiring changes made by previous owner.
I wired up a toggle switch to serve as a master on/off until I get the chance to install a new ignition switch.
Mounted a new LED light for better night riding.
Fork oil changed.
Plan to pull the swingarm and check/grease bearings.
Other than that, it's the same old dented, scratched DR650.
Quote from: Nice Goat on February 27, 2018, 03:29:11 PM
Ordered Friday -- arrived Monday -- installed Tuesday.
Went for a little 30-mile test ride around north Cullman County. Bike runs purrrrfect! No more surging/bucking/herky-jerky. Power delivery is crisp, linear, and predictable. This is the way a DR650 was meant to ride!
Bike has 300 miles on it now, so I'm going to go ahead with the first oil change. Hopefully I can start putting some miles on this thing now that winter/cold/flu/etc is nearly finished...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/dc1770983fb6094fa273b402996f9aa9.jpg)
I'm curious. What made you choose the Mikuni TM40 carb over the the Keihin FCR (or FCR-MX). Is it just easier to tune, easier to source or just a little cheaper?
Quote from: Mulley on March 19, 2018, 03:18:28 PM
I'm curious. What made you choose the Mikuni TM40 carb over the the Keihin FCR (or FCR-MX). Is it just easier to tune, easier to source or just a little cheaper?
I was simply looking to get rid of the surging issues and get better throttle response. ProCycle made it very easy... the carb was already set up, so it was simply plug-and-play. I have no regrets... the bike performed flawlessly at Talladega.
Quote from: Nice Goat on March 19, 2018, 05:03:30 PM
I was simply looking to get rid of the surging issues and get better throttle response. ProCycle made it very easy... the carb was already set up, so it was simply plug-and-play. I have no regrets... the bike performed flawlessly at Talladega.
Good to know. I've read the ProCycle page. I just wandered if you had other reasons behind your choice. It sounds like an excellent carb.
@kdtrull (or anyone else who is looking):
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180508/6a9ed99c426962bd038d24507849fe65.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180508/992ed2dadb6fb201b4a6a3a1ca2c29f9.jpg)
Chitza
Where can I find that dr650 on the net?
Rich
@2372ighost, it's on FaceBook Market place. Let me know if you can't find it or the contact info.
Quote from: Chitza on May 08, 2018, 10:57:57 AM
@2372ighost, it's on FaceBook Market place. Let me know if you can't find it or the contact info.
Nice find. People keep telling me about fb marketplace and I keep forgetting to look at it.
Found it
Thanks
Rich