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I did a thing

Started by IceCold4x4, April 02, 2017, 03:05:57 PM

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IceCold4x4

Well been looking for a cheap dirt bike for about a year now since bblass cursed me by letting me ride his little TTR 225, and the bama rides group didn't help by giving me the Kazuma to keep up. So I went and snagged a kdx 200 today of a yet to be determined vintage. Cheap as chips. 300 bucks I think was a fair price considering at first glance it seems to have a cushy aftermarket seat, Fmf gnarly pipe and Fmf silencer. And the tires hold air and the trans seems to work and the suspension still works and isn't leaking fluid. Now for the bad stuff, no front caliper or brake line, throttle tube is junk, engine has zero compression, and there was tons of oil/grease /dirt bike all over the engine case when I got it. So hopefully it'll make a fun little toy to take to the ridge and try to keep up fencejumper. And without further delay here are some pics of this neglected maw kaw child.




kylepeterson

man, you know how to pick the problem children!

it's really easy to pull the cylinder off and assess the condition, or just pull the pipe off and look through there. normally no compression means a broken piston.

i could probably have it apart in the time it takes to get pizza delivered. i noted your post on kdxrider and looked here for your thread.... cool, easy to find !

anyway, holler and I'll swing by to look at it if you want extra eyes on it.

my quick look:
caliper $20 line $20 pads $9
fender (pricey as hell) $70-90
tires ve33/ve35 $100 and amazing traction
piston (Wisco)  and head /basegaskets $120



if you have to split the cases (broken piston or bad bearings) I'll do that for you, it's not hard at all.

.
the engine looks pretty clean from here. premix will make a bone look terrible if it picks you dirt and gets dry. it's really easy to clean though, just dump some diesel on it and use a2" paint brush.

btw, that's at least a 98 model, because it's a perimeter frame (E model ) with the more desirable larger carb than the kdx220.

if your wheels are tight and the power valve assembly works, you will have a fun bike for less than $600. 

IceCold4x4

Quote from: kylepeterson on April 03, 2017, 06:16:03 PM
man, you know how to pick the problem children!

it's really easy to pull the cylinder off and assess the condition, or just pull the pipe off and look through there. normally no compression means a broken piston.

i could probably have it apart in the time it takes to get pizza delivered. i noted your post on kdxrider and looked here for your thread.... cool, easy to find !

anyway, holler and I'll swing by to look at it if you want extra eyes on it.

my quick look:
caliper $20 line $20 pads $9
fender (pricey as hell) $70-90
tires ve33/ve35 $100 and amazing traction
piston (Wisco)  and head /basegaskets $120



if you have to split the cases (broken piston or bad bearings) I'll do that for you, it's not hard at all.

.
the engine looks pretty clean from here. premix will make a bone look terrible if it picks you dirt and gets dry. it's really easy to clean though, just dump some diesel on it and use a2" paint brush.

btw, that's at least a 98 model, because it's a perimeter frame (E model ) with the more desirable larger carb than the kdx220.

if your wheels are tight and the power valve assembly works, you will have a fun bike for less than $600.
Thanks alot man sent pm

IceCold4x4





Well I think that's not looking too good now is it?

IceCold4x4







Well I think it's safe to assume someone didn't know what they were doing...

There goes the cheap and easy rebuild...

kylepeterson

millennium technologies !

wiseco !

done!

hope does the crank feel? nice and tight at the stator end?

it doesn't look that bad, just the piston stayed in there to long and they used some kind of terrible ashy oil.

IceCold4x4

The scratches above the exhaust port seem pretty deep.

IceCold4x4

Haven't gotten the jig off yet. Watching the breakdown videos and making sure I don't cause anymore damage...

IceCold4x4


kylepeterson

Quote from: IceCold4x4 on April 04, 2017, 12:31:25 AM


the side to side doesn't matter, it will align and stay in place... oil has to get in there from somewhere..

if you can feel any up/down or twisting slop, it's time to repair the big end. if not, get a new piston and a re work on the cylinder.

those rings are why you aren't getting compression. i round never tell someone to soak it in pbblaster to get the carbon off them, and run it... but if you were desperate it would work. maybe.

IceCold4x4

I might feel the slightest up down, if it was a turbo compressor blade I'd call the up down serviceable. I didn't check for twist. I think I'll send it to millennium tech for their 225 kit..  Hehe

norton73

Does this thing have a chrome bore?
Loose nut holding the handlebars

IceCold4x4

From what i've gathered is a electro plated bore similar to nikasil.

norton73

I think I'd be searching eBay then.
Loose nut holding the handlebars

IceCold4x4

Quote from: norton73 on April 04, 2017, 09:34:24 AM
I think I'd be searching eBay then.
It'll be sent off to get a big bore piston and bored and replated. If I'm going to the trouble to get this thing street legal it's getting all the goodies.

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