I have always been a sucker for the stray puppy.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170422/d18db2412f58792d63b09ead29ee6d30.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170422/ae16244434afa6235bad1874d1875487.jpg)
And so it begins...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170422/92421e7a4a53b6e30f2ab4f74743c920.jpg)
What year is that?
Looks like a good candidate for a "Thinstrom" conversion.
It's a 2004. Mechanically sound. Needs basics like plastics, foot peg, seat repair and a new chain. Do you think it needs new sprockets???
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/c8b1bc47f7eced500f571697b6591856.jpg)
:D
nah sprockets are fine, sure it's not clutch slip??? lol
You could easily JBWeld some fillings/cap onto those baby shark teeth!
Looks like a fun project!
Up close and personal on the restore:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170430/1cb4110dba3074b2f51d1f5ab09143ba.jpg)
New steering device
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170430/f2a2064aaa11921e5d9e2c54a24be884.jpg)
New shoes
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170430/1be1a979beec3e4d60dcd1088d2b34a4.jpg)
I can't believe those sprockets. Even my little 16hp 250 started jumping teeth before the sprockets got anywhere near that bad.
One of these things is not like the other:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170506/739ca0ca8fc411fa37d4479bdd04b936.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/8a783a089ead1f4df60fa5d8132a1d20.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/ca253b45bab212746462ab1bb0a67a39.jpg)
Those spockets look like they could cut you. I had a XL250 back in the late 70's that started jumping teeth before I could get home late one night from visiting a friend at the hospital and it literally was friction drive the last mile or so. The counter sprocket teeth were just smooth bumps. Most of the rollers were gone off the chain and the counter sprocket was blue around the outside from the heat. I was really surprised that the output shaft seal was still good. I ended up marrying that friend and never let a chain and sprockets go that far again.
Looks like you have a very worthy project.
Looks like someone been getting every last penny out of those sprockets and pads! ::)
Sorry I forgot to take pics. But update anyway.
Took maiden voyage. Cough, cough, sputter, sputter.
Pulled tank, airbox, throttle bodies, etc. Cleaned, and replaced rubber bits.
Raised back to full height.
Ride, rinse, repeat.
It is getting there. It wheelies fine now.
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Well here's a pic. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170514/90ddbc7c444a49aeb66da73db9f47eda.jpg)
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How many miles does this bike have on it? Depending on mileage and if you know of any service, probably a good time to pull the tank and air cleaner box and check the filter. And check/replace the plugs. And if you're pulling the front plug, good time to drain/refill coolant.
DL1ks are sensitive to throttle body sync and idle adjustment. With the tank/airbox off, and easier access to the throttle bodies, it's a good time to run some vacuum hose line from the front and rear throttle body vacuum ports out to the right side of the bike to make it easier to hook up a sync tool.
Idle needs to be 1250-1400. Too high and rpm will hang when releasing the throttle. Too low and you'll have the bike start dying on you at stoplights when it's hot.
Also, these bikes are known to have throttle position sensors go bad or get flaky with age/heat. Symptoms are not wanting to idle after slowing down for an intersection after long stretches at a constant throttle opening (like rolling up to an offramp intersection after cruising down the interstate). It can also happen just in normal traffic (which is really fun during rush hour).
Another thing to check while you have the airbox off, make sure the rubber intake hoses are firmly attached to the throttle body inlets. Depending on throttle body sync, adjustment/state of the throttle position sensor, and how lean they are down at lower revs, they have a tendency to backfire out the intake and blow those intakes off. The bike will run rough if that's the case.
DL1ks are good bikes, but they have a few more quirks than the 650s, seems like. Once you get them running right, though, they're fun.
Thanks for the info. As I was cleaning, i noticed that there was some plastic in the air box. It looked like remnants of some sort of screen. I need to pull the parts diagram.
I powered the tps sensor it read normal.
I did reseat, the throttle bodies. They did not seem off, but I learned the hard way.
The issue I was having was that the bike would not take throttle. It was leaning out. It seems to be solved, but I only put about 20 miles on it.
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Oh and it has 30k miles
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I bet those mice that were in the exhaust can didn't know wtf was happening for the first 19 miles. ;-)
Just another thing I remembered from my research on the subject of fueling for these bikes.
2004-2005 (and maybe earlier, can't remember) have a different fuel map/ECM programming than the later years. Mine is a 2007, and when I got a Power Commander Fuel Controller (PCFC, highly recommend), I noticed different maps for the 2004 bikes than mine. Seems like they are the inverse of the way the later bikes are set up. Mine is very lean in lower rpms, and rich in the higher rpms, and it seemed like the 2004 was opposite.
TPS can test fine but still need replacing, just keep that in the back of your mind if you start hunting weird driveability issues. Heat is the killer, not mileage.
I had 2004 DL 1000, bought it new, it had a random cough or sputter, there were all sorts of remedies posted for a cure, I just lived with it. One thing though, make sure the spark plug well drains are clean, they can fill up with rain if blocked, I had it happen, but luckily figured it out. I remember people going crazy chasing electrical gremlins and that is all it was.
Good info. Thanks.
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