(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/joe_shimano/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2093_zps4ksdw8i5.jpg)
Picked this up last night "for the kids".
2006 Honda CRF150F. The man bought it for his sons to ride around the farm. The oldest road it for an hour and told his dad he didn't like it! Dad MADE him ride it for another hour (good dad right there) an son still didn't like it. Youngest son piddled around on it for a while and lost interest so it was parked in the garage for a couple years.
A couple years pass and younger son tried to ride but it wouldn't crank. Dad takes it to dealership to have the carb rebuilt, brings it home and puts in the garage for the next 8 years. Finally posted it on Craig's List where I pounced on it.
The bike is in about show room condition with original everything.
It does leak gas out the carb so I've got to pull that tonight and see what's inside. Gunk and stuck floats I'm sure. It does crank and runs but rough after the 8 year nap it had.
Those are great bikes. That's what Suzy rode till Nick grew into it. Ours is a 2007 and never a lick of trouble except carb gunk from sitting. I recommend finding a power up kit, they are cheap but these bikes are lean as crap factory.
Pine sol that carb real good and give it a try. Holler if you need any advice.
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Thanks. Kinda confused on the oil change. Apparently oil and transmission is in separate reservoirs. It has 2 drain plugs; one under skid plate and one behind shifter. Which is which?
Two YouTube videos on how to do an oil change. One guy does the one behind the shifter, the other does the one under the skid plate. Both say they are changing the oil. Could just be different year Hondas. IDK
Here's info on the "R". Looks like 2 compartments.
http://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21330&sid=1dab6e89549e253a07ea76e230bbebbf
Quote from: catang5oh on June 09, 2016, 11:32:10 AM
Pine sol that carb real good
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/joe_shimano/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0703_zpsf3tgsbqg.jpg)
Ive seen worse. Cleaned both jets. Don't see anything making the floats stick. Why else would it leak from the overflow?
Going to pick up Pine sol 8)
Needle seat rotted?? Cracks in the float(s)??
Take the float assembly off, shake it, listen for sloshing. Hold it under gas or cleaner, pinch it, look for bubbles.
Don't have a test for the needle valve...sorry.
Floats 'appear' to be in good shape - no visible cracks/sloshing. Soaking in Pine sol overnight. I think they just need height adjusted.
FYI
If this bike has an oil reservoir and a transmission reservoir I can't find it. Only 1 drain plug under skid plate. I just dumped out OLD oil and put in fresh. Absolutely no place I can find to drain the second reservoir or put in fresh. Going to keep Googling that one.
Quote from: kdtrull on June 09, 2016, 07:14:17 PM
Take the float assembly off, shake it, listen for sloshing. Hold it under gas or cleaner, pinch it, look for bubbles.
Sounds like the test I do to see if the cat is dead or just sleeping 8)
Quote from: Chitza on June 09, 2016, 08:02:44 PM
Quote from: kdtrull on June 09, 2016, 07:14:17 PM
Take the float assembly off, shake it, listen for sloshing. Hold it under gas or cleaner, pinch it, look for bubbles.
Sounds like the test I do to see if the cat is dead or just sleeping 8)
Now, that there's funny!
Quote from: jrobinson on June 09, 2016, 01:31:31 PM
Here's info on the "R". Looks like 2 compartments.
http://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21330&sid=1dab6e89549e253a07ea76e230bbebbf
That must be where I'm getting the two reservoir thing. The R has it, but not the F
Thanks
big difference in the "R" and "F" 150's. :)
I have found two things from spending a bunch of time getting a TTR125 running that sat for a few years:
replace the jets instead of cleaning them. that fixed some of my issues.
soak the whole carb assembly in Yamaha Carb soak stuff. It's a bottle that you mix 50/50 or something with water and let carb parts soak overnight. I did that on the TTR carbs and was pretty impressed with the outcome. I had a lot of issues with gas leaking and had to get a new o-ring that was up on top of the needle valve on the float bowl that was keeping it from stopping.
Sam has a CRF150F. They only have one drain plug. There's not two reservoirs on them. Go ahead and adjust the valves while your messing with it if you don't know when they were done last. We had a cam chain issue with hers at the Free State ride. The cam chain jumped time. The exhaust valve hit the piston. It's kinda weird. The bike ran fine at home before we loaded it up. When we unloaded it over there it jumped time when we tried to start it.
The only things similar about CRF150F's and CRF150R's are they both happen to be around 150cc's and are both made by honda. That's about where it ends.
http://owners.honda.com/assets/ownerlink/model/own_man/powersports/2007/2007_crf150f.pdf
Here's a PDF to the owners manual
Does anyone have a service manual they could loan out?
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After an I've night soak in pine sol, unclogged slow jet, new gas with a couple jiggers of sea foam, a long soak in hot water, and a tweak or two on the float height it no longer leaks gas ( for now )
I still need to reject it and see if I can make it run smoothly. Going to have to experiment on that.
EDIT: spoke to soon. Took a loop through the neighborhood and its pissing gas out the overflow. Arrrgghhhhh
Darn! I ordered a kit for the 185. It had everything but the O ring way up inside around the main jet. Orielly auto parts matched it perfectly
keep your fingers crossed
Pulled the carb and recleaned. Gave the float a 'tweak' and so far it hasn't leaked.
crap, crap, crap. Road around this afternoon and it started leaking again....
Have you tried giving the side of the bowl a little percussive maintenance when it starts to overflow? I've got a ttr-225 that does that from time to time. A couple of gentle whacks to the side usually fixes the issue.
Probably a bur or something on the dowel that connects the float to the needle valve.
Quote from: bblass on June 13, 2016, 08:24:02 AM
Have you tried giving the side of the bowl a little percussive maintenance when it starts to overflow? I've got a ttr-225 that does that from time to time. A couple of gentle whacks to the side usually fixes the issue.
Probably a bur or something on the dowel that connects the float to the needle valve.
Nope. But will try. Shopping for new jets and probably rebuild kit this week
Thanks for the tip
I may need professional help on this. Rejetted with 42 slow and 105 main. Ran awful
Still leaking out over flow. And to top it off I tore the fuel line taking it off.
Having a beer and calling it a day
Here is a thought. When I rebuilt my 78 CX 500, I had the same problem. Drove me crazy for about two weeks. I finally found the problem. Fuel was NOT leaking out of the top of the overflow tube, but instead it was leaking close to the bottom of the overflow tube. The overflow tube was cracked. Here is how I found it. Take the bowl off of the carb and sit it as level as you can. Fill the bowl up with gas, not any other liquid, almost to the top of the over flow tube. Check the level of the fuel every few hours or the next day. When I did this, the fuel had dropped to a certain level then stopped. It took a magnifying glass to find the crack, but it was there.
The overflow tube on the CX was pressed into the bowl and was not replaceable. I used solder and tried to fix it. Didn't work real well, so I bought a used bowl off eBay. Did the same test on the eBay bowl, no leaks. Replaced the bowl, no more leak.
Might not be your problem, but it is another thing to check.
Won't hurt to test it. Thanks
Going to pick up some small clear tubing to put on the overflow tube and see if I can find the fuel level in the bowl
Check the seat on the float valve. It could be leaking past if its seal is damaged or gunked up. +1 on the overflow tube too.
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and make sure you have the fuel/vent lines correct. i chased around an overflowing float bowl an extra day before I figured out I had put the hoses back in the wrong order. lol.
Quote from: Joe Shimano on June 17, 2016, 06:43:55 AM
Won't hurt to test it. Thanks
Going to pick up some small clear tubing to put on the overflow tube and see if I can find the fuel level in the bowl
Great idea with the tygon tubing sight glass!
(http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss4/kdtrull/tygon_zpsioefjydm.jpg) (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/kdtrull/media/tygon_zpsioefjydm.jpg.html)
Is that what you're thinking???
Quote from: kdtrull on June 17, 2016, 07:37:38 PM
Quote from: Joe Shimano on June 17, 2016, 06:43:55 AM
Won't hurt to test it. Thanks
Going to pick up some small clear tubing to put on the overflow tube and see if I can find the fuel level in the bowl
Great idea with the tygon tubing sight glass!
(http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss4/kdtrull/tygon_zpsioefjydm.jpg) (http://s556.photobucket.com/user/kdtrull/media/tygon_zpsioefjydm.jpg.html)
Is that what you're thinking???
That's it
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CRAP. That new float valve didn't help at all
I've had this issue with several CRF's. One ended up having a float that didn't float. Next time your messing with it, take the float out and put it in a cut of gasoline. Leave it for a few hours. Mine would sink after a while.
Quote from: bblass on June 13, 2016, 08:24:02 AM
Have you tried giving the side of the bowl a little percussive maintenance when it starts to overflow? I've got a ttr-225 that does that from time to time. A couple of gentle whacks to the side usually fixes the issue.
Probably a bur or something on the dowel that connects the float to the needle valve.
This was it I believe. Gave it some tough love with a screwdriver handle and it stopped.
Quote from: Joe Shimano on June 20, 2016, 06:40:00 PM
Quote from: bblass on June 13, 2016, 08:24:02 AM
Have you tried giving the side of the bowl a little percussive maintenance when it starts to overflow? I've got a ttr-225 that does that from time to time. A couple of gentle whacks to the side usually fixes the issue.
Probably a bur or something on the dowel that connects the float to the needle valve.
This was it I believe. Gave it some tough love with a screwdriver handle and it stopped.
If there was one thing I learned in the army it was that hitting the offending object will solve 90% of its issues and has the added benefit of making you feel immensely better
OK. I give up. I CAN NOT get this carb dialed in. I've tried everything the online community suggested and it gets worse with each one. I need a recommendation for a good shop that won't rob me blind or someone willing to work for beer and BBQ
Are you making quarter turn adjustments and waiting 15 seconds between them?
Its the air jetting combo I can't figure out
Ok if the leaking isn't fixed, check the little spring inside the first needle.
What issues are you having with the air fuel mixture?
Bog off idle?
Bog at throttle?
Bog at wot?
I have dealt with many off these little carbs. The main issue I have had is vacuum leaks. Always start there when trouble shooting.
Are you in the Bham area? If so me and icecold4x4 are working on restoring an old scooter today. You're welcome to bring the 150 by and we can help out. Have you played with the air ratio screw at all? Generally it's 1.5 turns out and then tiny adjustments from there, if you've changed jets sizes or have a crack in a boot that will drastically affect things
Just put it back to factory jetting and runs pretty good. Slight stumble off throttle ~ OK after that. Air/fuel needs a special tool I don't have so I can't do much with that.
The special tool is a little flat head screwdriver. 8)
No, its a D shaped head
Those cheeky bastards. They changed it.
Yep. Looks like the middle one
dunk the floats in water, make sure there aren't any air bubbles. if they leak air, they will only partially seal off the float needle, part of the time.
check the needle seat for cracks/corrosion, and the float needle for deformation.
those are the only causes for an inconsistent over flow problem. for a consistent overflow problem, it's the first e height setting. there is a spec for the distance from the casting to the float, is usually +/- 1mm , which is pretty easy to set.
float height effects mixture at all rpms, but more so at under half throttle. fix that before jetting because it will throw everything off at lower rpm, and will drive you nuts because it's severity depends on what the bowl level is , and this changes all the time.
after float, pilot first, then needle clip, then main. i bet all you need is to correct the float height and get a good seal at the float needle, for that bike to run flawlessly.
Quote from: Joe Shimano on August 14, 2016, 01:02:37 PM
Yep. Looks like the middle one
If you bend in one side of a .22 casing it works perfect
.22 case? Who'd a thunk it! Will give that a try. Thanks
Kyle - I think the float height is spot on. I used a dial caliper and set it to 0.5" per Honda specs.
It runs good enough for junior so I'll let it go till it cools off enough to work in the garage.