Doing valve adjustment on my Duc. A plug for some cool tools.

[Bama_Rider]

1. ABBA superbike stand.  You have to take the shock off to get to the rear exhaust valve on an aircooled Duc.  Can't do that on a swingarm stand.  Last time I rigged something up that was a bit sketchy.  This time I ponied up and bought a proper stand.  This thing works great.  Safer to use than a swingarm stand (although it takes one step more) and much steadier.  Holds it closer to the center of mass so lifting the front is easier.  I also bought the footpeg bolt adaptors so, if need be, I can pick the bike up and remove the swingarm or entire engine/swingarm assembly.  Works on basically any sportbike.

https://abbastandsusa.com/product-detail.asp?item=superbike-stand&pid=1

Eastman 3/8 electronic torque wrench. https://www.eastwood.com/digital-electronic-torque-wrench-3-8in-drive.html Bought this about a year ago.  My clicker 3/8 isn't accurate below around 20 ft/lbs.   These strain gauge wrenches are accurate to the bottom of their range.  Long handle for lots of leverage.  It beeps at you faster and faster until it goes steady when the torque is reached.  Loud enough to be heard easily. Has a multicolored LED indicator if you're deaf.  Can store 5 torque settings.  Enough to cover most jobs.  It is Chinese, but it looks well made and it works.  There are those who say if you're good you don't need one.  I disagree.  Torque settings are carefully engineered from a variety of variables.  People that build bikes in factories and put the same fasteners on all day every day use torque wrenches. If anyone would have a "feel" for it, it would be them but simply isn't accurate.  People that don't use them sometime undertorque large fasteners and almost always grossly overtorque the small ones.    When I did the valve adjustment on my VTEC VFR I used a torque wrench to put the cam bearing caps back on.  It was almost impossible to believe the torque requirement was that low. (9 ft/lb) You can do that with one finger.  I believed the manual but I listened closely to the motor for the next 2k miles.  They didn't fall off over the next 20K when I sold the bike. If I was a "feel " guy I am quite certain I would have put those on at double or triple the proper torque.  What would that do to the roundness of the cam bearing?  I don't know because I went by the spec.  Used the digital one today on the shock mount bolts and the timing belt adjuster bolts.  Used a little 1/4 clicker on the valve covers and the belt covers.

[bblass]

I've been eyeing an electronic torque wrench for awhile. The moment one of mine goes out of spec you just sold me on one!

[kylepeterson]

I like that stand. gonna make a couple for my dirty bikes. should make tire changes, balancing and oil changes so much nicer !

torque specs in service manuals are wrong so often it's not even funny anymore.  10 x or 1/10th torque seems to be the trend lately. pesky decimal places or something. ;-)

[Bama_Rider]

I like that stand. gonna make a couple for my dirty bikes. should make tire changes, balancing and oil changes so much nicer !

torque specs in service manuals are wrong so often it's not even funny anymore.  10 x or 1/10th torque seems to be the trend lately. pesky decimal places or something. ;-)

If you have some welding skills it wouldn't be hard to make one.  I don't have a welder or the skills so I bought one.  It really does work well and is very stable.

[bblass]

I'm down to try fabbing one up for a garage night